Friday 10 July 2015

India: Andaman and Nicobar Islands

Coral Reef at the Andaman Islands


The Andaman Islands form an archipelago in the Bay of Bengal between India, to the west, and Myanmar, to the north and east. Most are part of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands Union Territory of India, while a small number in the north of the archipelago, including the Coco Islands, belong to Myanmar.

The Andaman Islands are home to the only known paleolithic people, the Sentinelese people, who have had no contact with any other people.

Andaman and Nicobar are a large group of nearly 600 islands in the Bay of Bengal. Though they are a part of India politically, they are closer to Myanmar and Thailand than to the Indian mainland. They are grouped here with Southern India. They were just north of the epicenter of the Boxing Day quake of 2004, and were the site of dozens of aftershocks. The Nicobars were badly hit by the resulting tsunami, while the Andamans escaped with a few bruises. With the exception of Little Andaman Island and the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, the rest of the tourist destinations are operating normally again.

The Middle Andamans harbour mostly moist deciduous forests. North Andamans is characterized by the wet evergreen type, with plenty of woody climbers.

The natural vegetation of the Andamans is tropical forest, with mangroves on the coast. The rainforests are similar in composition to those of the west coast of Burma. Most of the forests are evergreen, but there are areas of deciduous forest on North Andaman, Middle Andaman, Baratang and parts of South Andaman Island. The South Andaman forests have a profuse growth of epiphytic vegetation, mostly ferns and orchids.

The Andaman forests are largely unspoiled, despite logging and the demands of the fast-growing population driven by immigration from the Indian mainland. There are protected areas on Little Andaman, Narcondam, North Andaman and South Andaman, but these are mainly aimed at preserving the coast and the marine wildlife rather than the rainforests.Threats to wildlife come from introduced species including rats, dogs, cats and the elephants of Interview Island and North Andaman.

Cities

Port Blair - the laid-back capital of the Andamans and the sole entry/exit point. Spend a day or two here walking around and enjoying fresh seafood and seeing a couple of the nearby sites.

Diglipur - take a road trip to the far north of the island chain, a base for visits to nearby Smith and Ross Islands.

Rangat

Mayabunder

Other destinations
Turtle Nesting sites in Dec-Feb

Havelock Island, the most visited of the islands, with the most although still minimal infrastructure. Beautiful beaches, great snorkeling and scuba diving.

Rutland Island, is pristine, non-polluted and least visited island. Beautiful Mangrove forest and coral reefs welcomes you to the 274 sq.km island. There is also a 45 acre Totani Resort which has quaint little huts which can be used as a base camp for exploring the island. It is the ideal place for eco-tourists.

Totani Resort

Neil Island, quieter than Havelock with nice beaches and decent snorkeling.

Wandoor, a relaxed destination in its own right, but known more as the gateway to the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park.There is a newly setup luxury resort called Sea Princess Beach Resort. Easily reached, and near the Wandoor jetty is Anugama Resort, the newest property there.

Baratang Island, Mud volcano, Limestone caves, and Mangrove creeks in back waters.

Barren Island, an island with the only volcano in all of India.

Long Island, great if you're looking for Robinson Crusoe style camping. Nothing exists here, so you must bring all of your own gear and food.

Little Andaman, once popular for surfing, it was devastated in the 2004 tsunami. Ask around in Port Blair to find out the current situation.

Jolly Buoy Island, a small island, is a part of the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park. It is undoubtedly the best place for snorkeling with its extremely clear waters and a rich and diverse marine life. It has a small beach with thatched huts and the location is quiet scenic. To reach here, one has to first go to Wandoor and then take a jetty from there.

Port Blair's dreaded Cellular Jail
WW2-era Japanese bunkers, Port Blair

1400 km from mainland India and 1000 km from Thailand, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands are one of the most remote spots on the planet. The original inhabitants are various aboriginal tribes who exist more-or-less out of the mainstream. There are some tribes who have had no contact whatsoever with the rest of the world. Of nearly 600 islands, only 9 are open to foreign tourists, and all of these are in the Andamans.

The islands exist in India's popular consciousness mainly because they were used as a penal colony by the British rulers to imprison rebels and freedom fighters, in addition to hardened criminals. Most of the inhabitants of these islands are in fact migrants from the mainland, some of them descended from the prisoners.

Religion
Most of the tribal people in Andaman and Nicobar Islands believe in a religion that can be described as a form of Animism. The tribal people of these islands believe that Paluga is the only deity and is responsible for everything happening on Earth.According to legend, Paluga resided at the Saddle Peak, the highest mountain peak of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. People try to avoid any action that might displease Paluga. People belonging to this religion believe in the presence of souls, ghosts, and spirits. Interestingly, people of this religion put a lot of emphasis on dreams. They let dreams decide different courses of action in their lives.

The other mainstream religions followed in Andaman and Nicobar Islands are in terms of size Hinduism, Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, Sikhism and Jainism.

Birds

Endemic or near endemic birds include

Spilornis elgini, a serpent-eagle
Rallina canningi, a crake (endemic; data-deficient per IUCN 2000)
Columba palumboides, a wood-pigeon
Macropygia rufipennis, a cuckoo dove
Centropus andamanensis, a subspecies of brown coucal (endemic)
Otus balli, the scops owl
Ninox affinis, a hawk-owl
Aceros narcondami, the Narcondam hornbill
Dryocopus hodgei, a woodpecker
Dicrurus andamanensis, a drongo
Dendrocitta bayleyi, a treepie
Sturnus erythropygius, the white-headed starling
Collocalia esculenta, the glossy swiftlet
Aerodramus fuciphagus, the edible-nest swiftlet

Reptiles and amphibians
The islands also have a number of endemic reptiles, toads and frogs, such as the South Andaman krait (Bungarus andamanensis) and Andaman water monitor (Varanus salvator andamanensis).

There is a sanctuary 45 miles from Havelock Island for saltwater crocodiles. Over the past 25 years there have been 24 crocodile attacks with four fatalities, including the death of American tourist Lauren Failla. The government has been criticized for failing to inform tourists of the crocodile sanctuary and danger, while simultaneously promoting tourism. Crocodiles are not only found within the sanctuary, but throughout the island chain in varying densities. They are habitat restricted, so the population is stable but not large. Populations occur throughout available mangrove habitat on all major islands, including a few creeks on Havelock. The species uses the ocean as a means of travel between different rivers and estuaries, thus they are not as commonly observed in open ocean. It is best to avoid swimming near mangrove areas or the mouths of creeks; swimming in the open ocean should be safe, but it is best to have a spotter around.

The islands' many caves, such as those at Chalis Ek are nesting grounds for the edible-nest swiftlet, whose nests are prized in China for bird's nest soup.

Climate data of Port Blair
Mid-January until mid-May sees the best weather, and often the best diving conditions. The days are mostly sunny at this time of year, and the sea sometimes flat enough to reflect the clouds. The monsoon usually hits around late May, lasting until the end of July, and is probably the worst time to visit the islands – strong winds, frequent rain and low visibility underwater. August through November some occasional showers and slightly rougher seas are possible but diving can still be great at this time of year. The weather often takes a turn for the worse for the month of December through early January.
Geography

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands stretch out almost 500 km in length, with the Andamans in the north and the Nicobars in the south. The main island, aptly known as Great Andaman, is divided into 3 portions - North Andaman, Middle Andaman and South Andaman. Port Blair is located on South Andaman.

The dominant language in the Andamans is Bengali. Tamil, Telugu, English and Hindi are widely understood by the inhabitants of the islands that are open to tourism.

Non-Indians need a Restricted Area Permit to visit the islands, but these are now issued on arrival at the Port Blair airport. If you plan to arrive by sea, you'll need to arrange your permit before arrival, either in Chennai or when applying for your Indian visa. Visitors usually receive a 30 day permit, although some travellers arriving without a confirmed flight back have only received a 15 day permit. Ask for the full 30 days in your application; if you write in your return flight date, your permit will be issued to end on that date, which will cause unnecessary pain if you choose to extend your stay or, worse yet, get unexpectedly delayed by weather.

Permits can be extended by 15 days in Port Blair, for a maximum single stay of 45 days, although this extension is granted only in, to quote the local police guidelines, "deserving cases". You must then leave the islands and can return after 72 hours. The permit is checked when arriving at most islands, checking into hotels and booking ferries, and must be surrendered when you leave the islands, so don't lose it.

The permit allows overnight stays in the following locations: South Andaman Island, Middle Andaman Island and Little Andaman Island(except tribal reserves, Neil Island, Havelock Island, Long Island, Diglipur, Baratang, North Passage and islands in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park excluding Boat Hobday Island, Twin Island, Tarmugli Island, Malay Island and Pluto Island. Overnight stays in the park are with permission only.

The permit allows for day-trips to: South Cinque Island, Ross Island, Narcondum Island, Interview Island, Brother Island, Sister Island and Barren Island which can be visited on board vessels only with landing possible.

Indian nationals do not require a permit to visit the Andamans. However, permits are required to visit Nicobar Islands and other tribal areas, which are rarely given. Application on a prescribed form may be addressed to the Deputy Commissioner, Andaman District, Port Blair.

Andaman’s airport is at Port Blair. it's connected to Chennai, Kolkata and lots of different cities within the country. Jet and Air India are the most important flights operators for Andaman. throughout the tourer seasons discounted airfares also are provided by the airlines. the price of the tickets is usually cheap, particularly if reserved earlier.

For now the only way to reach the Andamans by air is from the Indian mainland to Port Blair. There are talks of opening up flights from Bangkok, which could drastically change the situation in the islands, but as of 2009 these remain just plans. Flights can fill up in peak season and immigration doesn't look kindly on people arriving without confirmed flights back, so book a return ticket and change the flight date if you decide to hang around longer.

Air India flies from Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai.

Jet Airways now flies from Chennai to Port Blair, and from Delhi via Kolkata.

Spicejet, offers a flight direct from Chennai to Port Blair.

Go Air now flies daily from Kolkata to Port Blair, and from Delhi via Kolkata.

Flights to Port Blair are not really "low-cost", if compared to the same airlines' mainland India flights, but still cheaper than any other way to get to islands. Price varies significantly with date, so if your travel dates aren't fixed, you can save significantly by choosing the right day to fly. Advance booking available on respective airline's website at least several days before trip is recommended.

Port Blair's Vir Savarkar Airport is probably one of the most quaint and idyllic airports in India. There is a scenic view point where the whole airport can be seen. There are no night flights as the airport is handed over to the Indian Air Force after 3pm.

It is possible to take a ship from Kolkata (~60 hrs), Chennai or Visakhapatnam which takes almost 4 days to arrive in Port Blair. It is less expensive.. Facilities are basic, though and many prefer to sleep on the deck rather than in the cramped bunks. The ferries can take up to five days to arrive depending on weather and various other variables, this can be quite frustrating for many.

MV Harshvardhana Ship MV Nancowry Ship MV Nicobar Ship MV Swarajdweep Ship MV Akbar ShipThe fare price:

first class Cabin prices Rs. 4,250 for non-islanders and Rs. 1,960 for the islanders.
normal Bunk prices Rs. 1,410 for tourists and Rs. 650 for islanders.
Deluxe Cabin prices Rs. 5,980 for the tourists and Rs. 3,380 for the islanders.
AC Dormitory prices Rs. 2,450 for the tourists and Rs. 1,590 for the islanders.

Between islands
M/V Baratang, a "tourist" ferry
"Tourist" seating in the M/V Chouldari
Deck seating in the "local" Ramanujam

Andaman and Nicobar are a vast archipelago, and aside from some erratic, infrequent and expensive helicopter shuttles and a pricy seaplane service to Havelock Island, passenger ferries are the only way to get between the islands. There is also the Infiniti Liveaboard that makes trips to destinations such as Cinque, Barren, Narcondam and other islands.

All passenger transport in the islands is handled by the government-run Directorate of Shipping Services (DSS), which also runs the ferries back to the mainland. The DSS operates basically two kinds of vessels: small "tourist" ferries, and larger "local" ferries. Despite the names, fares are more or less identical on both, at Rs.150-200 one way from Port Blair to Havelock Island.

Tourist ferries seat about 100 people in padded bucket seats in a notionally air-conditioned cabin which can still get sweltering hot. While you can access the top deck, there are no seats, shade or shelter outside. These boats are faster and seaworthy, but top-heavy, and sway quite a bit in high seas. There is no canteen on board, so bring snacks or at least drinks.

Local ferries are considerably larger, seating up to 400 in two levels: padded "bunk" or "luxury" seating upstairs, and plain old benches on the "deck" downstairs. Neither class is air-conditioned, but ocean breezes keep temperatures tolerable, and a canteen dishes out chai(tea), samosas and bottled water. Due to their larger size, they're more stable in heavy seas, but take about twice as long as tourist ferries to get anywhere.

There's a new a/c catamaran ferry from Port Blair to Havelock. Tickets are 650, 750 or 1000 which gets you a leather seat and your own tv and can be booked from a dedicated ticket booking window at Port Blair, thus avoiding the queue barging, and through your guesthouse or wild orchid, emerald gecko & andaman bubbles on Havelock.

In high season demand often exceeds supply, so book your tickets at least one day in advance, either through a travel agent or directly at Port Blair's harbour. Ferry ticket booking has now been computerised. This means you can book any ferry from any jetty - i.e. Rangat to Havelock from the Diglipur ferry jetty. This obviously depends on the computers working! Services may be changed or cancelled at short notice due to inclement weather, notably cyclones in the Bay of Bengal. If you're prone to sea-sickness, pop a pill an hour before you get on board.
Within islands

Auto-rickshaws are available in Port Blair and on Havelock Island.
Taxis are available in Port Blair. Drivers double up as guides. A.c. taxis are also available.
Scooters & Motorcycles used to be available for rent in Port Blair, however, its not very easy to get one now. Auto-rickshaws may be the best way to move around the city. However, in Havelock Island they are the best option to enjoy a ride to the Radhanagar beach or around. It may cost you around Rs. 150 - Rs. 250 per day with a security deposit of around Rs. 750 - Rs. 1000.

North Sentinel Island
Among the many islands that make up the archipelago, 72 km2 North Sentinel Island is somewhat unique in that it is illegal to visit in order to protect the indigenous Sentinelese tribe. Despite numerous attempts at contact, the Sentinelese have resisted outside influences, and as a result the Indian government has decided to not pursue further attempts. Today, it is illegal to visit the island, both to grant the tribe their privacy and to avoid accidentally introducing disease into the native population.

Most people come here for the beaches and the scuba diving, especially on Havelock Island and Neil Island.

The only place with historical attractions of note is Port Blair, which houses both British-era colonial buildings, including the notorious Cellular Jail, and a few World War II bunkers dating from the brief Japanese occupation.

Neil Island: It is an amazing beautiful island with lush green forests and sandy beaches. This island is located at a distance of around 36 kms from the Port Blair. This is a perfect outing and holiday destination for the Eco-tourists.

Some people come to see members of the Jarawa Tribe. However, this is not recommended as contact with the outside world can be dangerous to the Jarawas' health. Groups such as Survival International encourage people to stay away from the reserve that they inhabit.

Scuba diving - Havelock Island is the main dive destination, but the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park has reopened. South Cinque Island is another possibility, enquire at Anugama Resort at Wandoor. One of the dive shops on Havelock was talking about opening a shop in Diglipur soon, which would open up newly discovered sites.

The best dive sites in the Andamans are in very remote locations and accessible via a liveaboard. The dive sites around Havelock are actually very ordinary by Andamans standards. The best diving in the Andamans is: Barren Island (an active volcano), Narcondam Island an extinct volcano, Invisible Bank an extensive seamount approx. 100 miles Southeast of Port Blair and 4 spectacular but un-named sea mounts off the west coast. There is also a good wreck dive just south of North Brother Island. There is one regular liveaboard in the Andaman Islands - the Infiniti Liveaboard, and it is the best way to get around. Its brand new & fully equipped, though a little expensive but well worth the money for the comfort & adventure.

Snorkeling - is a fun ,popular activity done at Jolly Buoy, North Bay, Mua Terra Beach and Havelock Island.But, The best place for Snorkeling is Jolly Buoy Island since it has the best water quality and also a huge variety of marine life (both, fishes as well as corals). The equipment is cheap, and can be bought or rented at North Bay for 100 Rs. The price for Snorkeling at various locations is about 500 Rs (for ~15 min.) and 1000 Rs (for ~25 min.).

Surfing is great on Little Andaman Island

Scan corals reefs in glass bottom boats off Jolly Buoy Island, at the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park at Wandoor, 29 km from Port Blair.

Check out India's only active volcano on Barren Island, for some magnificent volcanic diving

Take the Andaman Trunk Road, and be the zipping-in-the-car-idiot to the curious Jarawas. The ride is long, but the journey that takes you through some gorgeous reserve forests and up to Maya Bunder and beyond, is worth it.

Revisit Havelock just to taste the red Snapper in Burmese garlic sauce at Benny and Lynda's Wild Orchid Beach Resort.

Narcondam Island a dormant volcano is spectacular volcanic diving

Make a new list. Add scuba diving and sea cow spotting. Do some moon-bathing while planktons swim in a phosphorescent sea.


Andamanese people
Of the people who live in the Andaman Islands, a small minority of about 1,000 are the so-called Andamanese, the aboriginal inhabitants (adivasi) of the islands. By the 1850s when they first came into sustained contact by outside groups, there were estimated 7,000 Adamanese, divided into the following major groups:

Great Andamanese
Jarawa
Jangil (or Rutland Jarawa)
Onge
Sentinelese

As the numbers of settlers from the mainland increased (at first mostly prisoners and involuntary indentured labourers, later purposely recruited farmers), these indigenous people lost territory and numbers in the face of punitive expeditions by British troops, land encroachment and various epidemic diseases. Presently, there remain only approximately 400–450 indigenous Andamanese. The Jangil were soon extinct. The Great Andamanese were originally 10 distinct tribes with 5,000 people in total; most of the tribes are extinct, and the survivors, now just 52, speak mostly Hindi.The Onge are reduced to less than 100 people. Only the Jarawa and Sentinelese still maintain a steadfast independence and refuse most attempts at contact; their numbers are uncertain but estimated to be in the low hundreds.

Cuisine
Tandoori fish at Lighthouse Residency, Port Blair

Seafood is the order of the day. From upscale restaurants in Port Blair to local dhabas on Havelock, fish abounds. Be prepared to pay a little more for good fish and seafood dishes than for standard indian food, but it's well worth it. Basic Indian food is also available, and as cheap as on the mainland in most of the small dhabas. Resort restaurants on Havelock can also whip up a limited set of more or less Western dishes, but the resort restaurants are pretty expensive for Indian standards. Fresh Crab & Tuna can be enjoyed here.
Drink

Fresh coconuts are popular and widely available.
Alcohol is available in some restaurants and at 'English Beer & Wine Shops' in Port Blair and on Havelock Island. The beers will not be cold when purchasing across the counter,except in local bars.
Local bars are dingy and for some odd reason is very poorly lit giving it a very eerie feel to it.
There is no Pub culture or even a Dance Club.

Accomodation
Camping in wilderness

Subramanyam, (Opp:Viper Island), ☎ 9933235136, . Online Registers can get free Camping service. or Rent a Tent,Do Camping in Hill Forest side village.Unorganized Camping in 5 Acres.This is yet to start operations though. edit

Dhungi Charles Pani Resort Black Water Resort, Ramnagar, No.3, Neil Island (Neil jetty towards no.3), ☎ 9474274991. This is surely one of the best place to stay in Neil Island.It's a newly country style made resort. Managed by a young couple, Prakash and his wife Bina. Very unique location, surrounded by natural forest, five minutes walk to the sea-shore. enjoy snorkling, swimming and diving in deep blue sea. Can have loads of fun by going for fishing and visiting the agricultural farms of the owners. They have a small restaurant also a grocery shop located nearby. edit

Booking A&N Tourism Accommodation
There are a variety of hotels around the islands which are run by Andaman & Nicobar Tourism. You can book all A&N tourism hotels both in person at A&N tourism in Port Blair, by phone on 03192 232694, or by email on accomodation6@gmail.com Tariff is Rs. 1000 per night for a double occupancy room. But these rooms get booked from months in advance. Hours are 0830-1100,1400-1500.
Stay safe

The Andamans are a fairly safe destination. Tourism is still in its early stages which makes it almost hassle free. That said, you should keep your wits about you as you would anywhere.

The Andaman Islands are the home of some of the last un-contacted tribes of Eurasia. These tribes have resisted modernization for some time. An example is the Sentinelese tribe, who inhabit North Sentinel Island. They maintain their sovereignty over the island and are hostile towards outsiders. However, as a tourist, you will go nowhere near them, so this is not really an issue. Actually, The Indian government bans entry into the island.

Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) are present within suitable habitat throughout the Andaman & Nicobar Islands.

While attacks on locals do occur every year within the island chain, the only attack on a foreigner within recent history occurred off the coast of Havelock Island in April of 2010. While saltwater crocodiles generally remain within the rivers and coastal mangrove swamps, they do occasionally travel within the open ocean, as was the case in this attack. Attacks on humans in the ocean are very rare.

The main crocodile populations are around Little Andaman Island (Northern and Western sides), Interview Island and in the narrow straits that seperate the main islands MacPhearson Strait, Andaman Strait, Homfrey Strait and Austen Strait. Crocodile populations are also known from many of the Nicobar Islands.
Stay healthy

Andaman and Nicobar are malarial, although generally no more so than mainland India.
Contact

The Indian country code applies here (91) and the area code for the entire Andamans is (3192). So, from outside India, you dial +913192xxxxxx. Within India, you dial 03192xxxxxx.

Mobile phone coverage nominally exists on many islands, but the coverage is poor and dropped signals are the norm. State owned BSNL, and private operators Airtel and Vodafone-Essar are the operators providing mobile services there. Landlines are frequent in Port Blair, but more erratic as you move around the islands.

Internet access is slow but tolerable in Port Blair,BSNL EVDO Sticks on CDMA Technology Works the best with Speed upto 1 Mbps,Bsnl 3g Gives speed around 100 kbps and ADSL is un-serviceable most of the times. Private Players like Airtel,Vodafone offers Internet Acess Through GPRS & EDGE which is pathetically Slow. Reliance Internet Only works in the City but slow. Project for Inter Connectivity of Islands with Underwater international Chennai-Singapore marine cable is under Consideration.Once finished will offer Seamless and fast connectivity .
Respect

Tourism is still relatively new on the Andamans and as such the traveler has a special responsibility in guiding its developement. Leave the bikinis on the beach. Remember that this is India and local women are very conservative in their attire. Alcohol should be consumed on the premises of your hotel only. The quiet and peacefulness of the islands are one of their best assets; help to maintain these.

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