INDONESIA: Hotel Of The Week: Gili Khumba Villas, Gili Trawangan

Small in stature - big on hype; that could well be the epithet that best describes the tiny Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Yet the hype is well justified with captivating tropical scenery and a bohemian beach vibe that keeps the crowds flocking here in their thousands. It's a far cry from my first time in Gili T, more than a decade ago, long before the advent of the now ubiquitous boutique villa scene. Back then we made do with simple homestay accommodation where a hot water shower and air conditioning was the height of luxury.

This time we craved a change of scenery - away from the crowded beach strip - and a few more creature comforts. We spent a couple of lazy days at recently opened Gili Khumba Villas, set amid shady coconut groves in the quieter north of the island. Khumba Villas features a dozen contemporary styled one and two bed self contained villas, each with private pools set in an enclosed garden compound. The layout is open plan with an integrated lounge, dining and kitchen area overlooking the pool.

Our villa featured a plush bed making an afternoon power nap an effortless pleasure, and the adjoining open air bathroom was surprisingly cavernous, with a brightly coloured walk-in shower amid a small forest of tropical foliage.

The Australian owner of Khumba Villas comes from a fashion design background and it is clear to see there is an artisan's eye for detail at work here. There is a strong Indian influence to the decor with vivid artwork on the walls depicting colourful Indian street scenes sprinkled with ethnic style objet d'art.

The immediate surroundings are surprisingly bucolic when you consider Gili Trawangan's 'party island' reputation. We explored the maze of undulating dirt tracks that wind through the coconut groves populated by little more than a few grazing cows but this being tiny Trawangan, you are never out of earshot from the ebb and flow of the ocean. A short stroll reaches the northern beach strip - a refreshingly laid back alternative to the wall-to-wall bars of the island's south.

After lunch, snorkelling and a lazy hour on the sand, the heat was taking its toll on my usually irrepressible nine-year old. Back to the villa to cool down. The private full size pools are fringed by a well manicured lawn and mature palm trees which provide all the shady respite you need from the inevitable onslaught of the midday sun, yet the proximity to the sea means you can still benefit from cool breezes sweeping in off the Lombok Strait.


Gili Trawangan is a 90 minute speed boat ride from the east coast of Bali.