Thursday 21 January 2016

GHANA: Ancient Larabanga Mosque, Tamale

Larabanga is a small town located in the Northern Region of Ghana. Larabanga is about 13m west of Damongo, and just 8km to or from the Mole National Park. It is predominantly a moslem community engaged in farming.

The Larabanga Mosque as the name suggests is found in Larabanga. It is touted as one of the oldest mosques in West Africa and in Ghana the oldest mosque. There are conflicting accounts as to when it was constructed. Local folklore gives a date circa 1421. This date is backed by the official tourism website which states that it was built in the 13th century. If the 1421 date is upheld, then, it can be said without any contradiction that the Mosque is the oldest standing architecture in Ghana today.

It pre-dates the arrival of Europeans and the construction of the Elmina and Cape Coast Castles. There can some level of agreement with account if one looks at fact that Islam was practiced in Africa for about four centuries before the arrival of the European and for that matter Christianity. Other researchers and indeed archives at the National Museum give a different date, which is 1663-75.

This new date according to records at the Museum was arrived at after dating the Qur’an found in the mosque. This account will appeal to those who believe in scientific arrival at conclusions rather than African mythology. The confusion with the date of construction notwithstanding, it can be categorically said that Larabanga Mosque is one of the holiest sites in Ghana.

The mosque itself can be described as being of Western Sudanese architecture or off Sahalien origin. It is similar in architecture to others found in Mali which gives it a sahalien look. The architecture means the construction could be possibly at the apex of the trans-saharan trade. This is backed by other mud mosques constructed along the trading routes of the moslem traders of the time.

If the date of construction of the Mosque is conflicting, then, how the mosque and the Holy Qur’an came into existence can best be described as “mysterious”. Tour guides at the site give accounts that are shrouded in mystery and domiciled in religion.

The story is narrated of how the founder of the town was passing through the area and decided to pass the night at that place. Men of that era were warriors who were spiritually strong and would not do anything without consulting any deity that they believed in. It is followed that he threw his spear into the air order to use the landing place for sleeping.

The narrative continues that the founder had a dream and saw the mosque. To his amazement, the foundations of the mosque were laid next morning when he woke up. The mysterious construction continued each night until the mosque was finally completed. An account has it that Ibrahim who succeeded Ndewura Jakpa prayed before the mystic stone for a Qur’an since he was the spiritual leader of his people.

His prayers were answered when one of the original seven Qur’ans was sent from Mecca. Therefore, the people believe that God or Allah had a hand in the construction of the mosque and the delivery of the Qur’an from Mecca to Larabanga.

The main things of tourist attraction are the mosque and Holy Qur’an which of course would be for both the religious and people who want to know about ancient architecture. Visitors should time their visits around April during the fire festival when the Holy Qur’an is read. The fire festival marks the beginning of the new Muslim calendar.

The Qur’an is read only once a year and on any other special ceremonies. It is advised that since the place is a holy place, visitors should try as much as possible to respect all norms of the people.

Visitors can go to the mystic stone also in Larabanga. It is believed that the position of the stone is where founder of the mosque stood to throw his spear. It is narrated that during the construction of the Larabanga-Damango road, contractors moved the stone only to find it at the same place the next day. The road has to be re-routed.

Overnight accommodation is provided in the Larabanga Township for those who want to spend the night. A night at Larabanga will provide visitors with an interesting African night life.

Entrance fees are not charged but visitors could carry some tokens to be given to the rector of the mosque and the guide or donate towards any development projects on going in the township.

Larabanga is on the same route to Mole National Park, therefore similar travel arrangements should be followed. The distance is about 658 km north of the capital, Accra and about 100 km from Techiman. One can easily reach this place as it is connected by good road network. From the capital Accra, you can either go by air with an inter-city link fight to Tamale (Capital) or board a trotro or rent and taxi to the park. Cost of intra-flight to Tamale range between Gh¢ 100 and Gh¢ 200.

You can also choose to go by a rented car, trotro (relatively cheaper than rented cars), STC, from Accra through Kumasi to Tamale. You can also get a trotro car from Bole to Sawla and to Damongo mostly in the mornings. From Damongo which is closest town you can get a car to Tamale of Kumasi and connect to Accra either by STC, OA, or even trotro. The trotro system is very common among all Ghanaian transport systems.

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