ZANZIBAR: Paje

The village of Paje greets weary travellers as they arrive on the south-east coast of Zanzibar from the airport, ferry port or hot, dusty alleys of Stone Town. You know you are approaching the coast (nothing from here to Indonesia) about ten minutes before you get here, as the lush, heavily scented interior changes to scrub and the salty tang of the freshest sea air.

Paje itself is a pleasantly ramshackle village with a high street dotted with local shops selling anything from mobile phone vouchers to Zanzibari doughnuts. With a Danish school in the village, people here are perhaps more accustomed to ‘mzungus’ (Westerners) than in some other areas.

There is even a mini-supermarket, the ‘SupaDuka’, with foodstuffs, suncream, an alcohol shop, souvenirs and a travel agency. Being in the middle of a string of villages, from Michamvi and Bwejuu to the north to Jambiani and Makunduchi to the south, Paje is ideal for exploring the south east of the island, from its stunning beaches to cultural tours.

Once through the village, Paje offers a stunning strand of white sand, peppered with holidaymakers, kitesurfers, cyclists, dog walkers, seaweed farmers and children. Busy in stretches, and quiet in others, this is one of the best places on the east coast to swim, with no rocks or sea urchins, just soft coral sand underfoot.

Accommodation options are mostly in the mid-range bracket, with access to the bar and kitesurfing scene - but some more affordable options are also springing up in and around Paje. Surprisingly given the quality of this stretch of beach, there are no high-end offerings.