The neighborhood originated around the Santa Teresa Convent, built in the 1750s on the Desterro hill. At the end of the 19th and early 20th century it was an upper class borough, as testified by its many opulent villas.
Santa Teresa ceased being an upper class neighbourhood long ago, but it has been revived as a fashionable hotspot. It is home to several artists and art studios and galleries. The offer of restaurants and bars is also varied.
One of Santa Teresa's most illustrious inhabitants was Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maia, an art collector who lived in his Chacara do Ceu mansion in the neighborhood.
The estate was turned into a museum or Museu da Chacara do Ceu and its exhibits include works by Matisse, Jean Metzinger, Eliseu Visconti, Di Cavalcanti, and Candido Portinari.
It is located near the cultural center Parque das Ruinas. In 2006, some paintings were stolen, and have not yet been recovered.
Another museum is the Museu do Bonde, which tells the history of the famous Santa Teresa Tram since its historic origins. A ride on the tram is a popular attraction among tourists.
It sports crossing the old Carioca Aqueduct, going through picturesque streets of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood and wonderful views of the city downhill.
The neighborhood arose in the 1750s on the Morro Desterro or Right Hill, emerging from the eponymous Catholic convent. It was one of Rio de Janeiro's first expansions out of the initial Portuguese settlement in the city center.
Initially inhabited by the upper class of the time, several houses and mansions were built, inspired by French architecture of the time, many of which are standing today. All throughout its history, Santa Teresa received many European immigrants.
Around 1850 many people, fleeing the yellow fever epidemic in the city, flocked to the neighborhood. As it was at a higher altitude, Santa Teresa was less affected by the epidemic than the surrounding neighborhoods.
In 1872, a tramline was constructed to connect Santa Teresa to downtown Rio de Janeiro, which further advanced the access to the neighborhood. The tram ran up the streets of Rua Joaquim Murtinho and Rua Almirante Alexandrino, crossing the Carioca Aqueduct.
Initially, the tram was drawn by mules, before it was equipped with engines and an electrified grid in 1896. The tramcars' colours ranged from green, silver and blue, but came to be painted bright yellow after complaints from residents who said that the tram disappeared amid the greenery of the neighborhood.
The iconic yellow trams or bondes has become a symbol of Santa Teresa.
By means of organized demonstrations, residents were able to preserve the historic tram system by convincing the government to release funds for the streetcars.
After an accident with a tram in 2011 that killed five people, all service on the tram line was suspended for four years, in order to modernize the system.
Over time, Santa Teresa lost its status as an upscale neighborhood, like many of the historic districts of Rio's South zone. In recent years however, it has become a district of cultural interest because of its architectural value and prime location.
In 2009 the city council started a gentrification program to revitalize the neighborhood. Walls were built to stop the surrounding favelas from growing; and taxes were imposed on water, energy and gas supply in order to decrease the number of poor people.
Traditionally Santa Teresa is a renowned gathering place for intellectuals, academics, artists and politicians, who are attracted by its historic character, cultural life and standard of living.
Due to this profile, it is a former district of opinion with political participation in popular movements. There are also a large number of NGOs who provide services and support to the favelas located around Santa Teresa.
Santa Teresa is also a vibrant gastronomic center, mainly around the Largo dos Guimaraes, as well as an artistic center.
Due to the large number of artists and art studios, the neighborhood has come to be called Rio's Montmartre.
The bohemian lifestyle has contributed to Santa Teresa being a main tourist attraction of Rio de Janeiro, as well as its recognition as one of the most unique neighborhoods in the world in 2016.
The neighborhood, affectionately called Santa by locals, is composed of several steep staircases, slopes, cobbled roads and tortuous alleys, which provide the character of the neighborhood.
These sloping roads connect Santa Teresa to the surrounding districts of Centro, Gloria, Laranjeiras, Fatima, Cosme Velho, Catumbi, Catete and Rio Comprido.
At the highest point of Santa Teresa, which gives access to Tijuca National Park and Corcovado, there is a broad panoramic view of the city.
Rio de Janeiro’s Santa Teresa neighborhood provides visitors with the quintessential Brazilian experience. Winding narrow streets and colorful historical buildings characterize the bohemian area, while from the top of Santa Teresa Hill, some of Rio’s best views of lush landscapes and Guanabara Bay unfold.
The Selaron steps are one of the most famous tourist attractions in Rio de Janeiro. Just bordering the neighborhood of Lapa, a trip to Santa Teresa would not be complete without taking a photo on these iconic flights.
The steps were designed by Chilean artist Jorge Selaron and feature intricate, brightly colored mosaic tiles. Selaron collected the steps’ tiles from the streets of Rio and then accepted additional tiles donated by visitors from all around the world; a true celebration of global unity and Brazilian energy.
Located in the center of the Santa Teresa neighborhood, Museu da Chácara do Ceu is one of Rio de Janeiro’s most comprehensive art museums.
Deriving from the private art collection of the Brazilian businessman Raymundo Ottoni de de Castro Mayo, the museum features Brazilian art, European works and the Brasiliana collection, which consists of vintage Brazilian memorabilia.
The museum prides itself on showing extremely private and rare pieces of art to the public, making a trip to the museum a valuable one.
There’s no better way to get to Santa Teresa from Rio’s city center than on the tram. The historic, bright yellow tram takes passengers from the center of Rio de Janeiro up the Santa Teresa Hill and ends in the Santa Teresa neighborhood.
Built in 1877, the Santa Teresa Tram is the oldest electric railway in Latin America. Visitors interested in the detailed history of the tram should visit the Museu do Bonde.
Santa Teresa’s municipal public park is located in the ruins of the old mansion belonging to Laurinda Santos, a patron who would gather artists and intellectuals for social gatherings in the early 20th century.
The mansion has been partially restored and is now used as a cultural center hosting various exhibitions, events and special programs. The ruins’ grounds are also stunning.
Take a walk around the old mansion, imagine some of Brazil’s finest inhabitants conversing over sophisticated topics a century ago, and enjoy the breathtaking views of Rio and Guanabara Bay.
If you’re looking for something to do at night, then look no further than Armazem Sao Thiago, Santa’s Teresa’s trendiest restaurant and bar.
Situated in a historic warehouse dating back to 1917, the bar strives to keep the location’s name and appearance alive for the sake of tradition, a value close to every Brazilian’s heart.
The bar’s ambiance is old school Brazilian and feels authentic, as almost everything in it is an antique. Enjoy the historic atmosphere while drinking a Brazilian beer and chatting with a local sitting nearby.
Visitors get to join locals and enjoy the national genre of Samba complete with local drummers, all while guzzling down cold Caiprinhas, Brazil’s national drink. There’s no better way to experience the native culture.
Stroll through the winding streets of Santa Teresa, and its oft-heard description rings true. This bohemian region of Rio de Janeiro is the work of the artists, writers and musicians who live there and who have transformed aging mansions into creative studios and artistic hotspots. Examine its relaxed vibe and hippy ambience.
This captivating hillside neighborhood overlooks Rio’s downtown and serves to highlight the many facets the city has to offer other than beachside antics. The area is dotted with 19th-century mansions – some crumbling wrecks, others carefully preserved in their former glory –which serve as a reminder of Santa Teresa’s economic boom.
In the 1800s, it was mostly unreachable, with a few dispersed farms and a forest refuge for escaped slaves, but the coffee industry golden days brought rich industrialists to the hills, along with their boastful mansions. Nowadays, it’s an artistic retreat and a popular tourist go-to area.
Head to Largo dos Guimaraes, which is the main square in the centre of Santa Teresa. It’s also the drop-off point of the neighbourhood’s famous bonde or tram and the key meet up spot.
From here, some of the area’s best bars and restaurants are just a short walk away.
Black-and-white photos of famous musicians, colourful posters and indigenous handicrafts line the walls of Bar do Mineiro, one of Rio’s most beloved Brazilan restaurants. Try the feijoada for a taste of classic Brazilian food, and wash it down with a strong yet tasty caipirinha.
Espirito Santa serves Amazon-inspired dishes to its guests, who can sit on the terrace that overlooks the city below. After eating, head to Explorer Bar for gorgeous cocktails that excel in both taste and looks.
Then move on to Mercado das Pulgas, which has roda de samba or live samba bands on the weekends, attracting a young party crowd.
Parque das Ruinas, the skeleton of an old mansion, offers wonderful views of Guanabara Bay. The site is also an important cultural center, with theater, circus and music programs throughout the week.
The Museu da Chacara do Ceu holds a small yet comprehensive collection of art, including both national and international works, as well as vintage Brazilian memorabilia.
In October, Santa Teresa is home to the Arte de Portas Abertas, a weekend event in which local artists open the doors to their homes and studios in an open-air exhibition.
Casa Cool Beans is a cosy bed-and-breakfast that’s fresh and modern without being too cute. Its ten guest rooms provide an intimate feel, and the lush gardens and pool can be enjoyed on lazy days when the beach just feels that little bit too far away.
For the ultimate luxury retreat, stay at the Hotel Santa Teresa, one of Rio’s finest boutique hotels, which comes equipped with an award-winning restaurant, a spa with full services and gorgeous rooms.
Check airbnb.com for listings, because staying in a local home can give an exclusive peek into the artistic lifestyle of this charmingly tranquil neighborhood.
Tourism Observer
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