MAYOTTE: The French Department In The Indian Ocean And Africa

Mayotte is a French island in the Indian Ocean off East Africa between Madagascar and Mozambique.

Although France has indubitable administrative control of the territory and it is part of the territory of the EU, Comoros claims the island as one of the Autonomous Islands of Comoros.

Mayotte was ceded to France along with the other islands of the Comoros group in 1843. When Comoros voted for independence in the 1970's, Mayotte decided to remain a French collective.

In March 2009, the islands voted overwhelmingly (95.2%) to become France's 101st departement effective in 2011.

The island is 95% Muslim and many Muslim customs such as polygamy, Islamic-inspired law, and male dominance are commonplace, although all was reversed in accordance with French law in 2011.

A large number of the island's population is composed of illegal aliens from neighbouring Comoros.

Mayotte is an insular department and region of France officially named the Department of Mayotte or Departement de Mayotte in French.

It consists of a main island, Grande-Terre or Maore, a smaller island, Petite-Terre or Pamanzi, and several islets around these two.

The archipelago is located in the northern Mozambique Channel in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Southeast Africa, between northwestern Madagascar and northeastern Mozambique.

The department status of Mayotte is recent and the region remains the poorest in France.

Mayotte is nevertheless much more prosperous than the other countries of the Mozambique Channel, making it a major destination for illegal immigration.

Mayotte's area is 374 square kilometres (144 sq mi) and, with its 256,518 people at the 2017 census, is very densely populated at 686 per km² (1,777 per sq mi).

The biggest city and prefecture is Mamoudzou on Grande-Terre. However, the Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport is located on the neighbouring island of Petite-Terre.

The territory is geographically part of the Comoro Islands. The territory is also known as Maore, the native name of its main island, especially by advocates of its inclusion in the Union of Comoros.

The language of the majority is Shimaore, a Bantu language variety closely related to the varieties in the neighbouring Comoros islands.

The second most widely spoken native language is Kibushi, a Malagasy language variety most closely related to the Sakalava dialect of Malagasy with influences from Shimaore. The vast majority of the population is Muslim.

The island was populated from neighbouring East Africa with later arrival of Arabs, who brought Islam.

A sultanate was established in 1500. In the 19th century, Mayotte was conquered by Andriantsoly, former king of Iboina on Madagascar, and later by the neighbouring islands Moheéli and then Anjouan before being purchased by France in 1841.

The people of Mayotte voted to remain politically a part of France in the 1974 referendum.

Mayotte became an overseas department on 31 March 2011 and became an outermost region of the European Union on 1 January 2014, following a 2009 referendum with an overwhelming result in favour of the department status.

The term Mayotte or Maore may refer to all of the department's islands, of which the largest is known as Maore or Grande-Terre and includes Maore's surrounding islands, most notably Pamanzi or Petite-Terre, or only to the largest island.

The main island, Grande-Terre or Maore, geologically the oldest of the Comoro Islands, is 39 kilometres (24 mi) long and 22 kilometres (14 mi) wide, and its highest point is Mount Benara, at 660 metres (2,165 ft) above sea level.

Because of the volcanic rock, the soil is relatively rich in some areas. A coral reef encircling much of the island ensures protection for ships and a habitat for fish.

Dzaoudzi was the capital of Mayotte and earlier the capital of all the colonial Comoros until 1977. It is situated on Petite-Terre or Pamanzi, which at 10 square kilometres (4 sq mi) is the largest of several islets adjacent to Maore.

Mayotte is surrounded by a typical tropical coral reef. It consists in a large outer barrier reef, enclosing one of the world's largest and deepest lagoons.

Followed by a fringing reef, interrupted by many mangroves. All Mayotte waters are ruled by a National marine Park, and many places are natural reserves.

In 1500, the Maore or Mawuti sultanate was established on the island. In 1503, Mayotte was observed by Portuguese explorers, but not colonized.

In 1832, Mayotte was conquered by Andriantsoly, former king of Iboina on Madagascar; in 1833, it was conquered by the neighbouring sultanate of Mwali or Moheli island in French.

On 19 November 1835, Mayotte was again conquered by the Ndzuwani Sultanate, a governor was installed with the unusual Islamic style of Qadi or judge in Arabic. However, in 1836 it regained its independence under a last local Sultan.

Mayotte was purchased by France in 1841. It was the only island in the archipelago that voted in referenda in 1974 and 1976 to retain its link with France and forgo independence with 63.8% and 99.4% of votes respectively.

The Comoros continue to claim the island. A draft 1976 United Nations Security Council resolution recognizing Comorian sovereignty over Mayotte, supported by 11 of the 15 members of the Council, was vetoed by France.

It was the last time, as of 2011, that France cast a lone veto in the Council. The United Nations General Assembly adopted a series of resolutions on the issues, under the title Question of the Comorian Island of Mayotte up to 1995.

Since 1995, the subject of Mayotte has not been discussed by the General Assembly.

Mayotte became an overseas department of France in March 2011 in consequence of a 29 March 2009 referendum.

The outcome was a 95.5 per cent vote in favour of changing the island's status from a French overseas community to become France's 101st departement.

Its non-official traditional Islamic law, applied in some aspects of the day-to-day life, will be gradually abolished and replaced by the uniform French civil code.

Additionally, French social welfare and taxes apply in Mayotte, though some of each will be brought in gradually.Comoros continues to claim the island, while criticising the French military base there.

Mayotte is an overseas department and region of France officially named Departement de Mayotte.

Unlike the other overseas regions and departments of France, Mayotte possesses a single local assembly, officially called the departmental council or conseil departemental, which acts both as a regional and departmental council.

The situation of Mayotte proved to be awkward for France, while the local population very largely did not want to be independent from France and join the Comoros, some international criticism from post-colonial leftist regimes was heard about Mayotte's ongoing ties to France.

Furthermore, the peculiar local administration of Mayotte, largely ruled by customary Muslim law, would be difficult to integrate into the legal structures of France.

Not to mention the costs of bringing the standards of living to levels close to those of Metropolitan France.

For these reasons, the laws passed by the national parliament had to state specifically that they applied to Mayotte for them to be applicable on Mayotte.

The status of Mayotte was changed in 2001 towards one very close to the status of the Departments of France, with the particular designation of departmental collectivity.

This change was approved by 73% of voters in a referendum. After the constitutional reform of 2003 it became an overseas collectivity while retaining the title departmental collectivity of Mayotte.

Mayotte became an overseas department of France or departement d'outre-mer, DOM on 31 March 2011 following the result of the March 2009 Mahoran status referendum, which was overwhelmingly approved by around 95% of voters.

Becoming an overseas department will mean it will adopt the same legal and social system as used in the rest of France.

This will require abandoning some customary laws, adopting the standard French civil code, and reforming the judiciary, educational, social and fiscal systems, and will take place over a period of about 20 years.

Despite its domestic constitutional evolution from the status of an overseas collectivity to that of an overseas department, effectively becoming a full constituent territory within the French Republic.

With regards to the European Union, Mayotte remained an Overseas country and territory (OCT) in association with the Union as per Article 355(2) TFEU) and not a constituent territory of the European Union in the same way as the other four overseas departments.

However following a directive of the European Council in December 2013, Mayotte became an outermost region of the European Union on 1 January 2014.

This successful agreement between the 27 member states follows a petition made by the French government for Mayotte to become an integral territory of the European Union nonetheless benefiting from the derogation clause applicable in existing Outermost regions.

This namely Article 349 TFEU, as favoured in a June 2012 European Commission opinion on Mayotte's European constitutional status.

In 2015, the GDP of Mayotte at market exchange rates was €2.25 billion (US $2.5 bn). In that same year the GDP per capita of Mayotte at market exchange rates, not at PPP, was €9,477 (US $10,516).

This was 14.5 times larger than the GDP per capita of the Comoros that year, but only 44% of the GDP per capita of Reunion and 27% of the GDP per capita of Metropolitan France.

As of the September 2017 census, there were 256,518 people living in Mayotte.

According to the 2007 census, 63.5% of the people living in Mayotte were born in Mayotte, 4.8% were born in the rest of the French Republic either metropolitan France or overseas France except Mayotte.

28.3% were immigrants from the Comoros, 2.6% were immigrants from Madagascar, and the remaining 0.8% came from other countries.

Most of the inhabitants of the island are Comorians. The Comorians are a blend of settlers from many areas, Iranian traders, mainland Africans, Arabs and Malagasy.

Comorian communities can also be found in other parts of the Comoros chain as well as in Madagascar.

The main religion in Mayotte is Islam, with 97% of the population Muslim and 3% Christian.

The main religious minority, Roman Catholicism, has no proper diocese but is served, together with the Comoros, by a missionary jurisdiction, the Apostolic Vicariate of Comoros Archipelago.

Mayotte Climate is tropical; marine; hot, humid, rainy season during northeastern monsoon (November to May); dry season is cooler (May to November).


Mayotte Landscape is generally undulating, with deep ravines and ancient volcanic peaks.

Cities of Mayotte

- Mamoudzou, capital of the island

- Bandele

- Dzaoudzi

- Sada

Planes fly daily between Reunion and Dzaoudzi, the airport/military base in Mayotte. For a return flight from Paris to Mayotte, expect to cash out at least €800.

Kenya Airways has flights from Nairobi to Mayotte. This is an extension of their Paris-Nairobi flights.

The primary port for boat transport is Dzaoudzi.

The easiest way to get around Mayotte is with bush taxis or taxi brousse who will take you around the island for a few euros.

French is the official language and is spoken by around 63% of the population. Few people over the age of 65 speak French.

The vernacular languages are Shimaore, a language closely related to Comorian and Swahili and Kibushi a language related to Malagasay and heavily influenced by Shimaore and Arabic.

Kibushi is spoken in the south and north-west of Mayotte, while Shimaore is spoken elsewhere.

French is the only official language of Mayotte. It is the language used for administration and the school system.

It is the language most used on television and radio as well as in commercial announcements and billboards. In spite of this, knowledge of French in Mayotte is lower than in any other part of France.

Local languages of Mayotte are:

- Shimaore, a dialect of the Comorian language close to Swahili.

- Kibushi, a western dialect of the Malagasy language (the language of Madagascar) heavily influenced by Shimaore and Arabic

- Kiantalaotsi, another western dialect of the Malagasy language also heavily influenced by Shimaore and Arabic
Kibushi is spoken in the south and north-west of Mayotte, while Shimaore is spoken elsewhere.

Besides French, other non-indigenous languages are also present in Mayotte namely:

- Arabic, essentially learned in the Quranic schools

- Various dialects of the Comorian language essentially imported by immigrants who have arrived in Mayotte since 1974

- Shindzwani, the dialect of Anjouan, or Nzwani,

- Shingazidja the dialect of Grande Comore, or Ngazidja,

- Shimwali the dialect of Moheli, or Mwali
.
Shingazidja and Shimwali on the one hand and Shimaore on the other hand are generally not mutually intelligible. Shindzwani and Shimaore are perfectly mutually intelligible.

At the 2007 census, 63.2% of people 14 years and older reported that they could speak French although 87.1% of those whose age was 14 to 19 years old reported that they could speak it.

Whereas only 19.6% of those aged 65 and older reported that they could speak it.

93.8% of the population whose age was 14 or older reported that they could speak one of the local languages of Mayotte - Shimaore, Kibushi, Kiantalaotsi, or any of the Comorian dialects, which the census included in the local languages.

6.2% of the population aged 14 and older reported that they spoke none of the local languages and could speak only French.

A survey was conducted by the French Ministry of National Education in 2006 among pupils registered in CM2 equivalent to fifth grade in the US and Year 6 in England and Wales.

Questions were asked regarding the languages spoken by the pupils as well as the languages spoken by their parents.

According to the survey, the ranking of mother tongues was the following, ranked by number of first language speakers in the total population; note that percentages add up to more than 100% because some people are natively bilingual.

- Shimaore: 55.1%

- Shindzwani: 22.3%

- Kibushi: 13.6%

- Shingazidja: 7.9%

- French: 1.4%

- Shimwali: 0.8%

- Arabic: 0.4%

- Kiantalaotsi: 0.2%

- Other: 0.4%

When also counting second language speakers e.g. someone whose mother tongue is Shimaore but who also speaks French as a second language then the ranking became:

- Shimaore: 88.3%

- French: 56.9%

- Shindzwani: 35.2%

- Kibushi: 28.8%

- Shingazidja: 13.9%

- Arabic: 10.8%

- Shimwali: 2.6%

- Kiantalaotsi: 0.9%

- Other: 1.2%

With the mandatory schooling of children and the economic development both implemented by the French central state, the French language has progressed significantly on Mayotte in recent years.

The survey conducted by the Ministry of National Education showed that while first and second language speakers of French represented 56.9% of the population in general.

This figure was only 37.7% for the parents of CM2 pupils, but reached 97.0% for the CM2 pupils themselves whose age is between 10 and 14 in general.

Nowadays there are instances of families speaking only French to their children in the hope of helping their social advancement.

With French schooling and French language television, many young people turn to French or use many French words when speaking Shimaore and Kibushi.

This has lead to some fears that these native languages of Mayotte could either disappear or become some sort of French-based creole.

Approximately 26% of the adult population, and five times as many women as men, report entering trance states in which they believe they are possessed by certain identifiable spirits or Djinns who maintain stable and coherent identities from one possession to the next.

Other languages spoken by smaller numbers include Kiantalaotsi which is closely related to Kibushi, Arabic and Comorian.

Mayotte currency is the euro (€). Local food and items like bananas, manioc, fish rice are inexpensive, imported items dairy products, manufactured products are expensive.

Activities and adventures to explore in Mayotte:

- Hike or climb to the summit of Mont Choungui will offer a spectacular panorama of the island.

- Makis a ring-tailed lemur can be found in remote regions of the island.

- Diving is mandatory. Expect spectacular sights in the world's largest lagoon.

- Sea turtles come to roost on the southern beaches.

- In August-September, humpback whales can be found with their calves in the lagoon.

Voluntary service or Volontariat Civil a l'Aide Technique (VCAT). Conditions: you must be French or from another EU-member state or a country belonging to the European Economic Area.

You must be over 18 and under 28 years old. You must not have had your civic rights revoked by a court or have been convicted of certain offences.

Cyclones do occur during rainy season.

Mayotte is a malaria-infested zone considered to be high risk. Consult your physician for anti-malaria medicine, take it, and pile on mosquito repellent to avoid bites.

90% of the population is Muslim, following a very tolerant Islam. Greeting others while perambulating about, or a pleasant expression of recognition, a smile, is considered respectful.



Tourism Observer

COMOROS: Comoros The Perfume Islands And Ylang Ylang

The Comoros are an island nation off the coast of East Africa, in the Indian Ocean between northern Mozambique and northern Madagascar.

Comoros has endured 20 coups or attempted coups since gaining independence from France in 1975. In 1997, the islands of Anjouan and Moheli declared independence from Comoros.

In 1999, military chief Col. Azali seized power. He pledged to resolve the secessionist crisis through a confederal arrangement named the 2000 Fomboni Accord.

In December 2001, voters approved a new constitution and presidential elections took place in the spring of 2002. Each island in the archipelago elected its own president and a new union president took office in May 2002.

One of the world's poorest countries, Comoros is made up of three islands that have inadequate transportation links, a young and rapidly increasing population, and few natural resources.

The islands of Comoros have been settled by a succession of diverse groups from the coast of Africa, Persian Gulf, Malay Archipelago and Madagascar.

Swahili settlers first reached the islands as part of the great Bantu expansion that took place throughout the first millennium.

In 933 CE, Al-Masudi refers to Omani sailors, who call the Comoros "The Perfume Islands" and sing of waves that break rhythmically along broad, pearl-sand beaches, the light breezes scented with ylang-ylang, a component to many perfumes.

From the 11th to 15th centuries, trade with the island of Madagascar and merchants from the Middle East flourished, smaller villages emerged, and existing towns expanded.

Portuguese explorers visited the islands of the archipelago in 1505. By 1506, the Portuguese landed on the islands and began to challenge the Bajas (Bantu Muslim chiefs) and Fanis (lesser chiefs).

Tropical marine; rainy and hot season (November to May).

Volcanic islands, interiors vary from steep mountains to low hills

Highest point: Le Karthala (on Grand Comore) at 2,360 meters.

Islands That Make The Comoros

Grand Comore (Ngazidja)

Moheli (Mwali)

Anjouan (Nzwani)

Mayotte is claimed by Comoros, but administered by France.

Cities and Towns Of The Comoros

Moroni — the country's capital

Domoni

Fomboni — capital of Moheli

Nioumachoua — second largest village of Moheli on the southern coast

Moutsamoudou — the capital of Anjouan

Visiting The Comoros

Everyone requires a visa to visit to the Comoros, which is issued on arrival. A normal visa costs Euro 30. It can be paid in Comorian francs, US dollars, or Euros. A visa lasts 45 days ; it can be extended, but ordinarily the authorities will not do so unless you have a good reason.

Kenya Airways now flies direct from Nairobi thrice a week, connecting with London, Dubai, Mumbai and Paris flights

Air Austral flies from Paris and Marseille with change of planes in Saint Denis, Reunion

Yemenia Airways fly 4 days weekly to Sana'a, Yemen with onward connection to all major cities.

East African Air Express (now Fly540, sister company to Flysax) connects to Mombasa, Nairobi, Dubai.

Ethopian Airlines from Addis Ababa

Air Madagascar flies almost daily from Madagascar

Domestic flights between islands are provided by Inter'Air Iles (also known as Inter Iles Aviation).

There are freighters that leave from Zanzibar and Madagascar for Moroni. These are cheaper than flying usually, but take longer and departure dates are less reliable.

In the past there used to be direct ferry services linking Mayotte with the rest of the Comoran archipelago. Those were suspended by French authorities due to safety negligence.

Touring Comoros

Contact and flight schedules are subject to change depending on the number of passengers especially on the route Moheli - Anjouan it can be a last minute decision if there is a direct flight or you need to fly via Moroni.

A return flight between the islands costs around €90. On Grande Comore all flights depart from Hahaya Airpor,about 30 minutes drive from Moroni.

It is possible to rent cars on Grand Comore for approximately €30 (or KMF 15,000) a day. Share taxis act as the de facto bus service around the islands. They are hailed by the side of the road while shouting your destination if the driver slows down for you.

If he has a passenger already going there, he'll pick you up. Fares around town are CF250 (50 euro cents) & CF500-800 between towns. It is CF500 to the Hahaya airport also CF500 if you carry on as far as Mitsamiouli.

Passenger boats for 200+ leave about 4 times per weeks between Moroni, Grand Comore & Mutsamudu, Anjouan for 30-35 euros second/first class taking 5 to 6 hours. Boards with boat departure times (very approximate!!) & prices are posted outside ticket offices around the port in Moroni & along the Corniche in Mutsamudu.

Speedboats leave for Moheli from Chindini, Grand Comore & from Mutsamudu in front of Hotel Karama.

SGTM has comfortable boats going from Moroni (Grand Comore) to Mutsamudu (Anjouan) to Dzaoudzi (Mayotte). Check their website for updated schedules and prices (in French).

As of Feb 2016, from Moroni boats to Mutsamudu leave every Thursday and Sunday at 11:00, returns from Mutsamudu on Wednesdays and Saturdays, also at 11:00. €35 one-way, €70 round-trip.

From Mutsamudu, boats to Dzaoudzi leave every Wednesday and Sunday at 12:00, return on Tuesdays and Fridays, same time. Prices depend on the season; cheapest one-way is €110, round-trip is €163.

The official languages are French, Arabic and Comorian.

French is the language of administration and education, and Arabic is the language of religion. Comorian (also known as Shikomor) - a Bantu language closely related to Swahili - is the language of the people. It is spoken by nearly 97% of the population.

Comorian is confined almost exclusively for oral use - in the few cases where it is written, it is written either in the Arabic script or the Latin script. Although the Latin script is more widely promoted, literacy in the Arabic script is higher.

Most Comorians speak Comorian as a first language and French as a second. Some can also speak Arabic.

Each island has its own dialect. The greetings below are not necessarily direct translations.

Greetings nearly always follow this pattern:
Grand Comore

Yedje? (How are you?), response: Ndjema (good)
Bariza? (News?), response: Ndjema
Mahabari (News?), response: Salimina (peaceful)
Hufanyiha dje? (How are you?), response: Ndjema
Na kozazidi? (And problems?), response: Raha (Not yet)
E ngawe mnono? (Your health?), response: Alhamdulilah (Thanks to Allah)

Moheli

Jeje? (how are you?)
Ndjema (good)
Gushindu? (your health is good?)
Ewa (yes)
Kumnono? (you feel good?)
Ewa (yes)
Habari (you are well?)
Salaama (at peace)

Note that any series of words with habari in it requires a response of salaama. Shikomor has various extensions of the habari greeting to indicate time of day, such as habarizaho or habariza sobwuhi.

Other necessary words:

Ewa (yes)
A-a (no)
Marahaba (thank you)
Marahaba menji (thank you very much)
Swamahani (Sorry/pardon me)
Pvapvo (there; used to tell a taxi driver where you want them to stop)
Pvano (here; same as above, but the driver will likely slam on the brakes)

Attractions

Grande Comore

Trek to the Karthala volcano crater (6-8 hours walk up on a well-maintained path); possible as a day-tour or as a overnight tour of 2-3 days. There is a permanent camp below the crater with tents. It is also possible to visit the sulfur springs further along (additional 2-3 hours of walking). Guides available. A 2-day trek with accommodation, food, water, guide costs EUR 100 per person.

Lac Sale - salt-water lake adjacent to the beach beyond Mytsamiouli in Grand Comore in what seems to be an old crater near the sea. Impressive sight from the rock between the lake and the sea, making it possible to get a good 360 degree view of the scenery. The location is very close to the national road.

Beaches near Mitsamiouli (Galawa, Planet and Maloudja). Basic beachfront bungallows available on Maloudja beach for EUR 30 per night.

Moheli

Livingstone Bats up in the trees after a 1-1.5 hour hike.

Giant Sea Turtles laying eggs every day at Itsamia. Basic accommodation by a community project is available at EUR 25 per room.

Saint Antoine ridge hike is a medium to slightly difficult hike (depending on the season) up on a mountain ridge to an old house of a colonial French person. A large part of the hike is just going up, but parts of the hike are on the ridge which is supported left and right by trees (so you are basically walking on roots, like someone said).

Dive in the Marine National Park with Laka Lodge.

Anjouan

Rent a 4x4 car with a driver and drive around the island, taking in a small waterfall, old towns and views of mountains and beaches. EUR 70 for a day-trip with 4x4 and driver (ask at Al Amal Hotel).

Go

Trekking

Cycling

Deep sea diving, snorkeling

Shopping

Handicrafts are not usually of good quality, though women of Mayotte as well as a few women in Grand Comore make quality baskets. One can buy CD's (burned), colorful cloths that women wear (500 KmF for a numbawani and 750 KmF for a finer shawl), beautiful scarves (2,000 KmF), and other imports.

Most handicrafts and tourist curios for sale at Volo Volo market in Moroni are made in Madagascar, and sold by Malagasy expatriates in the market. Local crafts are hard to find, but some are available at CNAC in Itsandra. Unique Comorian gifts can be found in other parts of Volo Volo market. Consider locally grown spices and essential oils, homemade lamps and vegetable peelers, or products made from coconuts.

Do not buy shells from vendors on the beach.

Because the Comoros are isolated islands, prices tend to be more expensive than the rest of East Africa. The cheapest hotels or bungalows in Moroni (the most expensive lodging region of the Comoros) may cost €20 or as little as 10 if you bargain hard. On the other hand, Hotel Moroni may cost hundreds. Imported goods are cheaper on Grand Comore than Moheli, but fruits and vegetables are cheaper, if less available, on Moheli.

Meals in a brochetterie (cheap restaurant that serves fried meat and bananas, manioc, taro, or breadfruit) may cost up to 1500 KmF (3 euros) on Grand Comore and as little as 250 (.50 euro) on Moheli. Cakes (sweet bread) sold by women on the street generally cost around 50-100 KmF each. One could get by on around 6,000-10,000 KmF (12-20 euros) per day for food and lodging.

Meals

Visitors are advised not to eat any of the local food unless it has been cooked through. It is easy to find grilled chicken and beef at street vendors along main roads especially in the evening . "Mataba" , a local rice and cassava dish, is extremely popular and easy to find locally as well.

Fruit is in abundance seasonally , including mangos, jackfruit, lychees, guava, oranges , and especially bananas .

Drinks

Alcohol is readily available in Moroni from Indian and Chinese merchants near Volo Volo. Castle beer from South Africa and cheap boxed wine from France are common. Most merchants will supply black plastic bags so that no one will notice you bought alcohol but except that they only give black bags to customers buying alcohol.

European restaurants will serve alcohol, too.

Accomodation

In a pinch, you can probably find a friendly local who will welcome you into their home for the night. Ask if they prefer you to pay them for food and/or lodging. Sometimes people are welcoming you as an honored guest and it would be odd to pay.

Karthala International Hotel, Moroni (Moroni).

Itsandra Beach Hotel (5 Star) Phone: 7733333; www.itsandra-hotel.com

Learning facilities on the islands, like most facilities, are underdeveloped. There are several schools on the island of Grand Comore, and one college. These are all severely lacking in resources and funding.

Employement

The third poorest country in the world, workers can expect to earn around $1 - 1.5 a day for basic employment.

Safety

Cyclones possible during rainy season (December to April).

Le Kartala on Grand Comore is an active volcano.

Civil war possible; Anjouan island most at risk clashes between rebel and African Union forces.

Health

Malaria is no longer prevalent in Comoros due to an experimental treatment given to all residents, however it is still advisible to sleep under a permethrin-treated mosquito net and take an anti-malarial while visiting. All visitors should wear mosquito repellant during the day because dengue fever is a problem seasonally.

Additionally visitors are advised to treat their water or buy bottled water to avoid typhoid fever. Grand Comore and Anjouan have the best medical infrastructure and you can be tested for common diseases in most major towns. If you get a fever, it is wise to get tested, especially if the fever does not respond to paracetemol or does not go away.

Moheli has a hospital in Fomboni and one that recently re-opened in Nioumachoua but may occasionally be accessible.

Healthy food is not difficult to find. Eat many fruits and vegetables as well as rice. During some time of the year vegetables might be only available in small quantities in Moheli. A healthy and delicious local dish is madaba (pounded and boiled manioc leaves). But madaba takes hours to prepare, so you may not find it in restaurants.

If you are fortunate enough to stay or eat with a local family, you might get to try madaba. Vegetarians should be aware that on Grand Comore locals put fish in the madaba, while on Moheli they do not. Women may experience cessation or alteration of their menstrual cycle due to poor nutrition if they stay in the Comoros for several months or longer.

Although the Comoros are a rather liberal Muslim country, it is disrespectful for women to expose their shoulders, much of their chest, knees, and especially stomach and lower back. Wear shirts or shawls that cover these areas. Locals will not expect foreign, non-Muslim women to cover their heads.

When swimming, local women are fully dressed. Foreigners are not expected to do this, but shorts and a swimming shirt is more respectful than a bikini or topless swimming. Men should wear shorts below the knee, though this is less offensive than a woman doing so.

Public affection between men and women is not acceptable, though one may rarely see a Comorian man and woman holding hands briefly in the nightclubs some locals seem to ignore Muslim convention.

Non-Muslim religious proselytizing is illegal, as is giving Bibles to locals. Locals are very tolerant and friendly towards non-Muslims, but avoid appearing as if you are trying to convert them.

Drinking alcohol in public is disrespectful, though it occurs in nightclubs. Restaurants generally do not serve alcohol unless they cater to foreigners.

To greet an elder, you say "kwesi". The elder says something like "mbona, mkana baraka" to which you respond "salaama".

It is a big mistake to hand out candy to children on the street. Since locals are unused to tourists, this rarely occurs and they are usually just happy to talk with you, children included. Once tourists begin handing out gifts and money, locals will see Westerners as rich and free with money, destroying many opportunities for a human connection with them.

Children will harass tourists for candy and money,they occasionally do now. Tourists who do this are showing themselves to be disrespectful of locals by assuming that money/candy is what they want from tourists and by putting that in between them rather than making an effort to get to know locals and ignorant of the consequences of their actions.

Since, allegedly, it was discovered that a Western man, resident of Grand Comore for 14 years, had been making pornographic videos and photographs, as well as violating children on the islands, the residents are quite averse to being filmed or photographed.

Individual reactions may vary upon being photographed, but visitors must be advised that taking unauthorised photographs of the locals will, at best, offend an individual and, at worst, cause irrational and potentially violent reactions in the subject.