Saturday, 9 September 2017

BANGLADESH: Dhaka, Visa Formalities Take Notoriously Long Time,Choking Traffic On The Streets

Dhaka or Dacca is the capital and largest city of Bangladesh. It is the cultural and economic hub of the country. Having a colossal historical background, the old part of the city, known as Old Dhaka or Old Town, is home to a broad range of architectural heritage starting from the vestiges of the Mughal Empire to the British Colonial buildings.

Being the centre of the independence movements of Bangladesh, Dhaka also hosts some significant national monuments and structures. There are a number of annual cultural events held in Dhaka like Pohela Falgun, Pohela Baishakh and Ekushe Book Fair which add a unique flavour to the city.

The modernization and development of Dhaka during the last couple of decades and a corrupt governing and middle class has made the development of international five star chain hotels profitable and spurred the building of some of the largest shopping malls in the world.

There are some cracking amusement parks and a surplus of cheap labour has meant that international restaurant chains are cheaper here than in the neighbouring countries.

Dhaka is a thriving, colourful and congested metropolis of some 18 million people. Given the number of people that live there, and the density they live in, Dhaka is one of the most frenetic places on Earth. The streets and rivers are filled with colourful chaos.

It also plays host to the highest number of rickshaws in any city in the world, totalling around 400,000; you certainly won't miss them. Experiencing the city for the first time can often seem overwhelming.

The existence of a settlement in the area that is now Dhaka dates from the 7th century. The area was ruled by the Buddhist kingdom of Kamarupa and the Pala Empire before passing to the control of the Hindu Sena dynasty in the 9th century. The Islamic Mughal Empire soon seized control of the city and turned it into a centre of trade and governance.

In the years of their vigorous rule, the successive governors and princely viceroys who ruled the province adorned it with many noble monuments, mosques, tombs, fortifications and Katras, often surrounded with beautifully laid out gardens and pavilions. The city passed through another phase under the rule of the British, until it became the seat of the eastern division of Pakistan after Indian partitioning. The Liberation War of 1971 gave Bangladesh its independence and Dhaka was declared the country's capital.

Since then, Dhaka has been developing fast as a modern city and is the country's centre of industrial, commercial, cultural, educational and political activity. The gap between rich and poor is widening throughout the country, but it's at its most glaringly obvious here.

Depending on where you start from, a thirty minute rickshaw ride can take you from impossibly crowded shanty towns near Old Dhaka to the glitzy high-class neighbourhoods of Gulshan and Banani where a meal costs more than most people earn in a week.

Motijheel is the main commercial area of the city. Dhaka's main waterfront, Sadarghat, is on the banks of the river Buriganga in Old Dhaka and is crowded with various ferries, yachts, paddle steamers, fisherman's boats and floating dhabas all bustling with activity.

The weather is tropical hot and very humid during the summer monsoon season (April-September) and drier and cooler in the winter (October-March). Visitors from colder countries might want to visit in the winter when temperatures are around 20C and humidity is low (around 60-70%).

Visa extensions are available at the Immigration and Passport Office on Agargaon Road in Central Dhaka. Most rickshaws and taxis will know where this is. An auto-rickshaw from Old Dhaka to the office will cost about Tk 150.

Most of the people will speak Bengali to communicate. Although some Urdu/Hindi speaking population resides in some parts of Old Dhaka, in Bihari Camp in Mipur and in Geneva Camp in Mohammadpur. You can find English speaking people but do not expect the CNG drivers or ricksha-walas to speak English. Just smile and repeatedly mention your destination if you don't get what they are saying.

Boat (launches) to Barisal departs from Sadarghat every evening 08:00-21:00. Double cabin without air-con is BDT1,600; with air-con it's BDT1,800. Arrives at 04:00 (Sep 2014)

Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (formerly known as Zia International Airport) is the primary airport serving both the city and the country. There are international flights available from most continents. Biman Bangladesh Airlines is the flag carrier of Bangladesh, and is connected to approximately 18 international destinations, including London. Although, these services change frequently due to financial issues.

Most flights to Dhaka depart from Istanbul, Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Kolkata. There is also significant traffic from Middle Eastern cities including Muscat, Jeddah, Bahrain, Doha and Kuwait. Additionally, there are two more international airports in the Sylhet, a north-east divisional city, and Chittagong, the south-east and second largest city of Bangladesh, respectively.

The Sylhet International Airport is called Osmani International Airport and Chittagong International Aiprot is called Shah Amanat International Airport. These two international airports are also well connected with many parts of the world with direct flight from and to many Asian and Middle Eastern countries including China, Malaysia, UAE etc when Sylhet airport has direct flight from London, where a huge number of Bangladeshi origin people are living particularly from Sylhet region.

There are frequent services from surrounding countries. Biman operates flights to most of these. Indian carrier Jet Air has direct flights from Kolkata, Dehli and Mumbai. Pakistan International Airlines has flights from Karachi. Biman and United Airways offer flights from Kathmandu, and Druk Air has flights from Paro, Bhutan.

Cathay Dragon operates flights from Hong Kong. From late 2013, Biman started direct flights to Yangon, Myanmar twice a week from Dhaka.

Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport is modern and reasonably efficient. However, excessive numbers of mosquitoes seem to inhabit the baggage reclaim area, so be sure to wear long sleeves and cover your legs and feet. Immigration can take a notoriously long time during peak hours,45 minutes plus as the system is manual and there are only 2 lines for foreign passport holders.

If you want to go from the airport to old dhaka by bus, go from the airport to the main road 4-500m and ask the people to help you to cach a bus to Gulisthan or ask the bus drivers,it's easy, a lot of bises go that direction. It's take 1-2h depend on trafic, 20Tk for the ticket, the entraiment is free.

The Maitree Express was reopened in 2008, and is a direct service from Kolkata, India. It is the only international rail service in Bangladesh. The train is renowned for attracting few passengers, running below 50% occupancy. Trains from Kolkata to Dhaka depart Tuesdays and Saturdays, and the reverse departs Tuesdays and Sundays. The journey to Dhaka takes 10 hours 50 minutes, and the train to Kolkata takes 11 hours 45 minutes.

The train has been criticised due to the long waits at the border crossings on both sides. Yet, it is still recognised as being a much safer, speedier and less stressful experience than going by bus.

Being the capital and geographical centre of Bangladesh, Dhaka is the natural hub for the country's bus companies. There are several bus stations around Dhaka, each of them serving a different region of the country. The stations are not for the faint of heart, being extremely crowded and noisy.

Sayedabad bus station is for buses to and from the eastern half of the country, including Sylhet Division and Chittagong Division. Sayedabad is currently very chaotic due to the building of a flyover. Roads have been dug up, and traffic is very slow. CNGs in the area all overcharge due to the lack of any order.

Gabtali bus station is for buses to and from the western half of the country, including Jessore, Rajshahi Division and Khulna Division.
Mohakhali bus station is for buses to and from areas north of Dhaka, including Tangail and Mymensingh. There are occasionally services to and from cities in the north-western portion of the country, such as Bagura.

Luxury buses serve locations dotted all over the country. These private buses are air-conditioned, spacey and usually have reclinable seats. Popular operators include Green Line, Shyamoli, Silk Line and Shohagh.

They all have ticket offices around town, the most well-known being those at the Pantapath. Green Line serves many major cities, with approximate times and prices listed below:

- Chittagong (BDT800-1500, 5-6 hours)

- Cox's Bazar (BDT800-1800, 8-9 hours)

- Rajshahi (BDT500-1000, 4 hours)

- Sylhet (BDT480-1200, 5 hours)

- Khulna (BDT550-1200, 7 hours)

- Jessore (BDT550-1200, 5-6 hours)

From India, there are a number of entry points for buses. The most common method is the air-conditioned buses from Kolkata to Dhaka, via the Haridaspur/Benapole border crossing. The private bus companies listed above also run cross-border services from India. Public buses run under the label of the state-owned West Bengal Surface Transport Service Corporation (WBSTSC) and the Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC).

WBSTSC and BRTC both operate buses from Kolkata every Tu, Th and Sa at 05:30, 08:30, 12:30, while from Dhaka they leave M, W and F at 07:00 and 07:30. The normal journey time is around 12 hours, with a one-way fare of INR800 (non air-con) & INR1400(air-con) or BDT600-800 (roughly USD12-20). The journey just to the Indian border town of Haridaspur will take 2 and a half hours, with a fare of approximately INR86, or BDT116.

There are no travel options from Myanmar, as the border is closed.

It is possible to cross from India via private vehicle. There are many border crossings, but the most popular is the one at Haridaspur/Benapole, located on the highway between Dhaka and Kolkata. Visa formalities take a notoriously long time.

The border with Myanmar is closed and heavily militarised with land mines.

Most ferries arrive at and leave from the port in Sadarghat of Old Dhaka. This area and the streets surrounding it are unbelievably hectic, so allow plenty of time and keep an eye on your valuables. If arriving at the port, fight your way to the left on the frontage road and then make your first right; this turns into Nawabpur Road and leads north to the hotels.

Even if you aren't staying in this area, it's easier to walk several hundred meters north to catch an onward rickshaw or taxi; the ones near the port are at a constant standstill.

The Rocket Steamers, named P.S. Tern, Masud and Ostrich depart to Barisal and Khulna several times per week, leaving from Sadarghat around 6pm. To Barisal is Tk 480 and Tk 300 in first and second class respectively, while the ride to Khulna will run Tk 1010 for first class and Tk 610 for second.

The Khulna trip takes 26-30 hours. Tickets should be booked at the BIWTC office in Motijheel, just east of Dilkusha Circle I. It's open until 5PM Sunday to Wednesday, until 2PM on Thursdays and closed on Fridays.

Chandpur is a second major river station, located 3-4 hours from Dhaka and 5-6 hours from Barisal.

Numerous other boats are available for short and long distances. Head to Sadarghat or Badamtoli ghat (about 1 km further west) and ask around. Tickets cannot be pre-booked and bargaining is likely necessary.

Dhaka has wide range of transport systems from cycle-rickshaws to buses to water buses. A public transport system is existent which is on a reformation process. However, Dhaka suffers from choking traffic which causes extensive travel time.

Cycle rickshaws or simply, rickshaws, are the most popular form of transport, and good for short distances, mainly on side streets. They make up the bulk of the city's horrendous traffic, and charge around Tk 30 to 50 for a 15 minutes ride in Banani, Baridhara or Gulshan,less in other parts of Dhaka.

Negotiating a fare beforehand is essential as a foreigner. Rickshaws are not allowed to cross most of the main roads. If you're a woman, it's particularly inadvisable to ride around alone in rickshaws after dark; you're a slow-moving target asking for trouble from thugs and muggers.

Auto-rickshaws, locally known as CNGs named after compressed natural gas, their fuel source are abundant and have meters, which drivers can sometimes be persuaded to use. They're the cheapest way to cover longer distances; an 8 km ride from Old Dhaka to Gulshan should cost around Tk 150-250.

The meters start at Tk 25 for the first 2 km and Tk 7 for each subsequent km, but you'll likely have to negotiate a fare instead. The city does become very congested at times, so allow plenty of time for getting around.

Given the plethora of all forms of transport, if you're having trouble getting a decent fare with a driver walk a few feet to the next one. Not all are out to gouge you, so better to find the honest ones and give them your business. Occasionally a driver will demand more money on arrival; the best way to deal with this is to hand over the agreed or metered fare and walk away.

Make certain from the start that the driver knows where you're headed unless you can direct him yourself,they often have limited local knowledge, but will always say that they know where somewhere is, and take you 'round the whole city searching whilst the meter ticks.

Make sure that you take a card with your hotel or hostel written on it so that you can actually get home. Having a card for the hotel with the actual address makes this a whole lot easier.

Taxis are hard to hire from streets so you will need to book one. There are a few types taxis, some yellow and some black, some white, all with meters. Black taxis start the meter at Tk 25 but usually you have to negotiate about the fare. A ride between Old Dhaka and Gulshan in a black cab will probably cost you around Tk 250-350.

Yellow taxis have slightly higher standards in terms of comfort but are more expensive and will probably cost you Tk 500. Black and white taxis are typically in notoriously poor condition and lack air conditioning. Yellow taxis are required to have air conditioning; the fleet consists mostly of Toyota Corollas, with some Mitsubishis and Hondas.

But if you are a foreigner, a CNG is in many cases the better option because in a car, you are clearly visible as a foreign passenger which will in many cases attract many beggars and street vendors.

Buses run routes on the main roads, but are often horribly crowded and noisy, signed only in Bengali and aren't likely to be of much use to travelers. But there are some buses which only take passengers if seats are available,at least in theory, but compared to the other buses they are usually not very crowded and you have to buy a ticket at one of the bus counters in advance.

During the rush hour, it can be difficult to get a seat and maybe you will have to wait in line with the other passengers. But taking the bus is cheap and once you found out which bus you have to take and where you have to get off, it is possible without speaking any Bengali. But going by bus takes usually more time than going by CNG and buses are also frequently involved in collisions.

Save yourself a headache and take a rickshaw or CNG, or for long distances, a comfortable, air-conditioned bus or train.

Driving a car in the capital can be a nerve wrecking experience. Officially, cars drive on the left, although the reality can be different. Locals will often zoom down the wrong side of the road in an attempt to overcome the traffic. Traffic police monitor most intersections in the city, in an attempt to keep the traffic flowing.

Many intersections have been upgraded with traffic signals, but these are often ignored by both drivers and traffic police, who will direct cars as they see fit.

There are some options for car rental, with Europcar being the notable Western brand name. The Government's Virtual Bangladesh website has more options. Many companies may also offer the option to rent-a-driver for a number of days; it is common for most middle to upper-class locals to have their own drivers.

If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing in one day, and don't want to deal with the CNGs, hiring a car and driver is by far the most pleasant way to get around. Rates start at around Tk 2500 per day in an A/C car.

Many locals often use bicycles as a primary form of transport. They can be useful in their ability to squeeze through tight situations, where traffic may prevent a larger vehicle from moving at all. Some newer roads in the capital have dual bike/rickshaw lanes. Unfortunately, there are few formal opportunities to rent a bike and the roads are in such bad condition, but with heavy traffic, that the chance of a collision is high.

The trains in Bangladesh only operate between major regional cities. There is no suburban or metro rail system in Dhaka, although there are plans to build an elevated inner-city line by 2019. Due to this lack, city can become gridlocked for a number of hours.

Sometimes, walking may actually be the fastest way to get from point A to B. Always ensure you walk on the footpath, or if one isn't available, as far to the side of the road as possible. The road is a dangerous place in Dhaka, and many pedestrians are often injured by passive drivers.

Those who are squeamish to pollution or have asthma may need to wear a mask; the air pollution from passing trucks and buses, combined with the searing heat and humidity can be overwhelming at times.

Sites to visit

Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection, Armanitola Rd, Old Dhaka. A small, cosy church built in 1781 by Armenian missionaries. Mass is conducted only a few times throughout the year, usually during Christmas and Good Friday. Tours are informal, and could be organised by the caretaker 'Mr Martin'. Free, but tipping the caretaker is a friendly gesture.

Baitul Mukarram Mosque. The national mosque of Bangladesh. It was built in 1968, and is the 10th largest mosque in the world.

Chawk Mosque, Chowk Bazaar, Old Dhaka. A mosque in Old Dhaka that dates from the 17th century, most likely built by the Mughals.

Dhakeshwari Temple - Dhakeshwari Jatiya Mandir), Dhakeswari Rd, Dhaka. National Temple of Bangladesh, built in the 12th century.

Dhammarajika Bouddha Maha Vihar - Kamalapur Buddhist Monastery, Atisha Dipankar Sarak, Kamalapur. A Buddhist temple and monastery established in 1960, with a number of other facilities on site. There are various mosaics, murals, statues and artefacts at the monastery.

Holy Rosary Church - Tejgaon Portuguese Church, Farmgate, Tejgaon, Dhaka. An old Portuguese-influenced church built in 1677. The façade was recently repainted into heavy Indian-style colours. A large, new building has been built next door to allow a larger congregation.

Hussaini Dalan Mosque. Built during the 17th century by the Mughals as a house for the imam, a religious leader. It's architecture possesses a mix of both Mughal and British influences.

International Buddhist Monastery, Merul Badda, Gulshan, Dhaka. A Buddhist monastery that was founded in 1981, and has been at its current site since 1989. It is popular with visiting Buddhist businessmen and foreign dignitaries.

Musa Khan Mosque, University of Dhaka. Located west of Shahidullah Hall at Dhaka University, this historical mosque was built to honour the former ruler of the region. The inscriptions on the mosque seem to state that it was originally built 1484 CE, but was repaired heavily in 1700 CE.

Ramakrishna Mission, 27 R K Mission Road, Gopibag, Dhaka. A Hindu temple and complex that was first founded in 1916. The architecture is Indian-influenced.

Saat Masjid - Seven-domed Mosque. A Mosque built during the 15th century; it is characterized by its seven white domes that peek upwards from the structure.

Sitara Mosque or Star Mosque, Armanitola Rd, Old Dhaka. Built in the early 18th century, it has since been redecorated with hundreds of tiles with star patterns. Tourists are welcome to visit outside of prayer times.

Ahsan Manzil or Pink Palace, Ahsanullah Road, Dhaka,On the banks of the Buriganga River. Apr-Sep: Sat-Wed: 10:30-17:30, Fri: 14:30-19:30; Oct-Mar: Sat-Wed: 09:30-16:30, Fri: 14:30-19:30; Ramadan: Sat-Wed: 09:30-15:30. A British Raj-era building that served as a residence for the Nawab of Dhaka. It lies on the banks of the Buriganga River, and is famous for its pink stonework.

There are 31 rooms within, and the huge dome atop can be seen from miles around. It has recently been renovated into a museum with various displays concerning its history, with a beautiful garden accompanying the building. Cameras and bags must be left in the storage room. Foreigners: Tk 100, under-12s: Tk 2, locals and SAARC citizens: Tk 5, disabled persons: free.

Banga Bhaban. Official residence of the President, located in the city. This grand palace of the British India era is only visible from the outside.

Curzon Hall, University of Dhaka, Dhaka. An architecturally beautiful building named after Lord Curzon. Once intended as a town hall, it now houses the Science Faculty of the University of Dhaka.

Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban or National Parliament, Sher-e-Bangla Nagar. Open normal office hours. Designed by the famous American architect, Louis I. Kahn, it is renowned as a modern architectural wonder of the region. The Parliament is surrounded by gardens that form a peaceful getaway from the chaos of the city. The building is also surrounded by heavy security. Foreigners have to fill out a form, providing passport photocopies, to visit the building. Tk 500 for advanced bookings, Tk 600 for on arrival visits.

Lalbagh Fort or Lalbagh Kella, Lalbagh, Old Dhaka Best method is to simply ask a rickshaw driver for Lalbagh Kella; the streets surrounding it are a maze. 10am-5pm, closed Saturdays. Built in 1678 AD by Prince Mohammad Azam, son of Mughal emperor Aurangazeb.

The fort was the scene of many bloody battles, including those during the Mughal era, a revolt against the British during the time of the Raj and protection for the revolutionary forces during the Bangladesh Liberation War. Monuments of the Lalbagh site include the Tomb of Pari Bibi, Lalbagh Mosque, the Audience Hall and the Hammam of Nawab Shaista Khan, which now houses a museum. There are separate fees for locals and tourists; both are fairly cheap.

Old High Court Building, Kazi Nazrul Islam Ave, Ramna, Dhaka. Originally built as the residence of the British Governor, it illustrates a happy blend of European and Mughal architecture. Now houses the Supreme Court. It is unknown whether tours are conducted.

1857 Memorial - Bahadur Shah Park, Sadarghat. Built to commemorate the martyrs of the first Liberation War (1857-1859) against British rule. It was here that the revolting sepoys and their civil compatriots were publicly hanged. A large park surrounds the memorial, with various other monuments.

Aparajeya Bangla, University of Dhaka. A statue dedicated to those who lost their lives in the 1971 Liberation War.

Central Shaheed Minar, In front of the Dhaka Medical College, University of Dhaka. A symbol of Bengali nationalism. This monument was built to commemorate the martyrs of the historic language movement of 1952. Hundreds and thousands of people with floral wreaths and bouquets gather on 21 February annually, paying respect to the departed in a solemn atmosphere. The date was designated by the UN as International Mother Language Day due to the event. Celebrations begin at midnight.

Jatiyo Smriti Soudho or National Martyrs' Memorial, Savar, Dhaka District 35km north-west of the city. The memorial was designed by architect Moinul Hossain, and is dedicated to the sacred memory of the millions of unknown martyrs of the 1971 War of Liberation.

Mausoleum of National Leaders, Southwestern corner of Suhrawardy Uddyan. Eternal resting place of great national leaders, Sher-e-Bangla A.K. Fazlul Haque, Hossain Shahid Suhrawardy and Khaja Nazimuddin.

National Poet's Graveyard, University, Adjacent to the University's mosque. Revolutionary poet Kazi Nazrul Islam died on the 29 August 1976 and was buried here.

Dhaka is home to over 2000 buildings built between the 16th and 19th centuries, which form an integral part of Dhaka's cultural heritage. Such as Binat Bibi Mosque, Lalbagh Fort, Ahsan Manzil, Tara Mosque, Chawk Mosque, Hussaini Dalan, Armenian Church, Curzon Hall, Dhaka Gate, Dhanmondi Shahi Eidgah, Rose Garden Palace, Choto Katra, Bara Katra, Dhakeshwari Temple, Swami Bagh Temple, Ramna Kali Mandir, Holy Rosary Church, Pogose School.

There are still many colonial buildings at Dhaka Sadarghat, Armanitola, Farashganj areas of Old Dhaka. Binat Bibi Mosque was built in 1454 at Narinda area of Dhaka during the reign of the Sultan of Bengal, Nasiruddin Mahmud Shah (1435 – 1459), which is the oldest brick structure that still exists in the city.Important landmark buildings constructed during British rule include Old Highcourt building, Bangabhaban, Curzon Hall and Mitford Hospital.

National Capital Complex, based on the geography and heritage of Bengal, was inaugurated in Dhaka in 1982 as one of the largest legislative complexes in the world, comprising 200 acres (800,000 m²).Designed by American architect Robert Boughey, Kamalapur railway station is another architectural marvel, which was constructed in the early 1960's and started its operation from 1969.

Independence Monument is a new landmark, which was built to commemorate the historical events that took place in the Suhrawardy Udyan during the Liberation War of Bangladesh.

There are many museums in the city. Such as Ahsan Manzil, Bangladesh National Museum, Museum of Independence, Liberation War Museum, National Museum of Science and Technology (Bangladesh), Bangabandhu Memorial Museum etc.

Baldha Garden, Wari, Old Dhaka. A unique creation of the late Narendra Narayan Roy, the landlord of Baldha. Established in 1904, the garden with its rich collection of indigenous and exotic plants is one of the most exciting attractions for botanists, naturalists and tourists.

National Botanical Gardens. Covering a total of 205 acres of land at Mirpur, the Gardens are a haven of peace in the chaos of the city. It is situated right next to the zoo, so both can be visited in one trip.

Ramna Green or Ramna Park, Ramna, Dhaka Near the Ruposhi Bangla Hotel. A vast stretch of green surrounded by a serpentine lake.

Suhrawardi Uddyan or Ramna Racecourse, Suhrawardi Uddan Rd, Ramna, Dhaka. A racecourse of the British times, it has now been converted into a park. It was the place where independence leader Sheikh Mujibur Raman delivered a historic oath of independence speech before the 1971 War, and then ironically where the Pakistani army surrendered a few months later. The 'Shadhinota Stambha' monument has been erected here, as well as an eternal flame to mark its significance.

Activities You Can Do In Dhaka

Bangabandhu Memorial Museum, Road #32, Dhanmondi, Dhaka. Thu-Tue: 10am-6pm. Former residence of the Father of the Nation, Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman. It has been transformed into a museum and contains a rare collection of personal effects and photographs of his life and times. He was assassinated in 1975 along with most of his family members.

Dhaka Zoo or Mirpur Zoo, Mirpur, Dhaka. Apr-Oct: 9am-6pm; Nov-Mar: 8am-5pm. Closed Sundays.. Colorful and attractive collections of different local and foreign species of animals and birds, including the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger. Elephant and horse riding is available for a very cheap Tk 5 and Tk 3 respectively. Tk 10, 0-2 years, school and University students are free with ID..

Institute of Arts and Crafts (Charukola Institute), University of Dhaka, Shahbag. Houses a representative collection of folk-art, modern art and paintings by numerous artists of Bangladesh.

Liberation War Museum, 5 Segun Bagicha, Dhaka. Apr-Oct: 10am-6pm; Nov-Mar: 10am-5pm. Closed Sundays. Contains rare archival photographs and items used by the freedom fighters during the nine month Liberation War of 1971. This is probably Dhaka's most interesting musuem, and for the price, shouldn't be missed. You need to leave big bags at reception. BDT 5.

National Museum, Shahbag Rd Dhaka, Bangladesh. Apr-Sep: Sat-Wed: 10:30-17:30, Fri: 14:30-19:30; Oct-Mar: Sat-Wed: 09:30-16:30, Fri: 14:30-19:30; Ramadan: Sat-Wed: 09:30-15:30. Contains a large number of interesting collections, including sculptures and paintings from the Hindu, Buddhist and Muslim periods. Next door is a popular public library. Foreigners: Tk 75, locals and SAARC citizens: Tk 10, disabled persons: free.

National Museum of Science and Technology, Agargaon, Sher-E-Bangla Nagar, Dhaka. 9am-5pm. Closed Thursdays.. A museum and modern learning center displaying the latest scientific discoveries. Each weekend, a starwatching evening is held for Tk 10. Tk 5.

Sadarghat River Front. A huge river port on the banks of the Buriganga River. Catch a ride on a boat here and cruise along the river, soaking in the surrounding chaos, sites and ship breaking yards. Beware of touts selling one-hour trips for 400 Tk/hour. 60 - 100 Tk/hour (Dec 2013).

Have a picnic in one of the designated parks, including Chandra and Salna.

Ride a rickshaw through the maze of narrow laneways that is Old Dhaka. Visit a nearby village and see the way of life, including the jute cultivation and pottery making.

Dhaka has some of the largest shopping malls in the world with Basundhara City and Jamuna Future Park being the most prominent ones. There are numerous mid size malls in every neighborhood of the city. If you go shopping in the street bazaars and markets, ready to bargain then there are certainly bargains to be had among the bazars and markets of Dhaka.

To get a feel for what things should cost in the local markets check prices in the western-style fixed price shops and then deduct 10%. If you prefer hassle free shopping then head to Bashundhara City, a huge shopping centre with more modern shops and other ameniteis you would expect to find in a mall.

Banga or Bango Bazar, is a block west of the Gulistan bus station on Kamruzzaman Sharani Street at the edge of Old Dhaka. For shopaholics this is probably a paradise but for others it can be a nightmare. There are thousands of small stalls intersected by narrow walkways which are often jammed with people.

The quality varies widely but the prices can be very cheap, after you bargain vigorously. Try US$1 for a T-shirt, US$3 for blue jeans and US$5 for jackets. However, this is not a market for the brand conscious.

New Market on Mirpur Road in Dhanmondi, just west of Dhaka University. This is the largest market in the city and it has more class, more room and just as much choice. Prices may be a little higher because the stall rent is likely to be more expensive. As well as clothing, there is leather, linen, jewellery, household goods, CDs and DVDs and so on. It is normally closed on Tuesdays.

Bashundhara City on Pantha Path just west of the Pan Pacific Hotel. This multi-story complex is the closest replica of the malls found in Asia. It is the newest and most modern place to shop in the city with small shops spanning over a whopping 10 floors.

Garment seconds, Banga Bazar and Pallwell Market Gulistan area, just West of Motijheel; PM: Purana Paltan area just beside Jonaki Cinema Hall. Many items only have minor defects, but do not meet export requirements.

Pink Pearls. Available in many handicraft stores, with some dedicated outlets in Gulshan. There you can also design your own jewellery, but stores demand usually 4 to 5 times higher prices from foreigners, so better to discuss about the price with a local first.

Aarong. A well known chain with several outlets around Dhaka and one in London. It is owned by BRAC,the largest development organisation in the world and sells handicrafts and clothing at moderately high prices.

Aranya, 60 Kemal Ataturk, Banani. Another good store with beautiful crafts at moderately high prices. Supports fair trade practices and clothes are dyed with natural colours. Closed Su.

Sopura Silk Mills Ltd. 121/C Gulshan Avenue ,Gulshan -2 1st Floor, same building like Movenpick icecream. 09:00-20:00. Well known store for silk scarfs and silk sarees. Very reasonable prices and big sortiment.

Jatra, 60 Kemal Ataturk, Banani same building like Aranya. Jatra sells beautiful handicrafts and cotton as well as silk clothes that are dyed with natural colours at moderately high prices. Very famous among hip locals and foreigners. Probably one of the best places for buying souvenirs. Closed on Sunday.

Anjans. Good place for buying local dresses and handicrafts. Several outlets in Dhanmondi, Bashundhara City and Banani (Road 11).

Nogordola. Famous for ready-made three pieces and sarees. Accessories and handicrafts are also available. Several outlets in Dhanmondi, Banani (Road 11) and Bashundhara City.

Jamuna Future Park, Near Bashundra, Just ask for Jamuna Future Park. regular shopping hours. The newest and most modern of the shopping malls here with several 3D theaters, a good amount of brand stores, an extensive food court, a bowling alley, as well as a rather large outdoor amusement park. A must go for shopping and/or a day out.

Relatively new so most floors are unoccupied and sparsely populated. An alternative to Bashundhara City but would advise going to the latter if shopping, but for more practical activities, this is recommended. Fairly normal, depending on the brand.

Shimanto Square, Near Dhanmondi lake, BGB, the market is also called Rifles Square. regular shopping hours. A modern shopping mall filled with all sorts of shops. There are about 360 shops that are operating in the market. All stores are well decorated and full of local and imported products.

Here you will find all kinds of readymade wear, shirt, pant, sari, three pieces, babies’ wear, toys, cosmetics, jewelry, electronics product, shoes, crockery, gifts, card gallery, mobile phone shops, movies, fashion product and many daily needs. The quality of products sold in this market is generally high and they take international prices.

Here you will find some modern food corners, which attract numbers of young people who come here to chat. Fairly normal, depending on the brand.

Delicacies

Dhaka is reputed for its unique traditional festivities and food delicacies from way back. It hosts a wide-ranging menu of distinctive dishes many of which were introduced during the regime of Sultani and Mughal Period. Due to different ruling periods, the cuisine of Dhaka is versatile and with a rich culinary tradition.

Like other parts of the country, everyday meals generally include plain steamed rice as staple food with fish, meat, vegetable curries and lentil soup is common accompaniment. Plain rice is often replaced by roti or parata. Curry is the most popular style of preparing dishes.

But Old Dhaka area has its own unique food tradition, known as Dhakaiya food. Old Dhaka is famous for its Morog or Chicken Pulao, its different from traditional biriyani by using both tumeric and malai or cream of milk together.Famous dishes of Old Dhaka are kebabs, naans, bakharkhani, kachchi and pakki biriyani, haleem, mutton bhuni kichuri, mutton tehari etc.

Dhakai Bakarkhani is the traditional food or snack of the people of old Dhaka. It is famous for its quality and taste and it was highly praised by the royal court of the Mughal Empire in Delhi. Along with Bangladeshi cuisine and South Asian variants, a large variety of Western and Chinese cuisine is served at numerous restaurants and eateries.

Often many restaurants customize fusion dishes which blends foreign and local cuisines to meet local taste. Local and international fast food shops and chains serve burgers, fries and other readily available foods. Street foods like Burhani, Lassi and Phuchka are highly popular among locals and tourists.

Fast-food chains like A&W, Burger King, KFC, Nando's, Pizza Hut, Pizza Inn and Sbarro have opened up their outlets in major areas of the city. Dhaka's delicacies such as Biriani from Haji's, Nanna's and Fakhruddin, Dhaka Cheese, Star Kabab still remain popular for dine. The city has numerous venerable Bengali confectionery chains, including Banoful, Alauddin, Bikrampur Mishti Bhandar and Rashmela.

Dhaka has an enormous variety of food catering to all budgets. Old Dhaka is overflowing with cheap Bangladeshi food where a meal can be had from Tk 50 ($0.70), while in the upscale areas such ad Gulshan and Banani you can find just about any type of cuisine you can imagine - Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek, Mexican and franchises such as Pizza Hut, KFC are abundant. Reservations are usually not required in most restaurants.

A lot of the buffet-style restaurants in this neighbourhood have Taka: 250 to 400, fixed price menu. For vegetarians, and especially Hindus, beef-free restaurants can be a bit difficult to find, but there are few Indian restaurants where one can get vegetarian food in a beef-free environment.

Local sweets or misti/mishti like rasogollah and golap jam/pantuya/ledikeni are excellent. To the uninitiated these are bite-sized soft milk curd balls dipped or drenched in syrup, coming in white and red varieties. Shops throughout the town and especially near Gulshan sell imported condiments from the U.S., Dubai and Malaysia at a premium.

Imported chocolate is especially expensive, and usually not in the best condition as it gets melted and re-solidified daily in the tropical heat.

Be careful when buying food from street vendors as health and hygiene standards are not always top notch. Unlike Bangkok street food in Dhaka is only for locals. Foreigners should stick to larger, organized, and unfortunately a little expensive, food outlets.

Restaurants are crammed throughout the narrow alleys and along the main streets, and you'll likely not to be too disappointed by them. A full meal will usually run less than the equivalent of one US dollar, although fish will push it closer to two.

Hotel Al-Razzaque, 29/1 North South Rd,Nazira Bazaar. On the ground floor of the hotel is a large and popular restaurant, busy anytime of the day with Bangladeshi families and businessmen. Food is pretty darn good, if unpredictable in its timing. Sometimes you'll have a choice of chicken and mutton curries, fish and vegetables, other times it's chicken biryani or the highway.

Fish will double the price of your meal, at least. It's sandwiched between a clean and well-stocked juice bar and a clean and well-stocked sweet shop. Each plate cost 80 Taka. Tk50-150.

Hajjee Beryaniin Nazira Bazar, close to Bango Bazar, old Dhaka. Old Dhaka was famed for its lines of beryani restaurants. Some of the more famous outfits are still going and Hajjee Beryani is one of them. It revels in its eccentric reputation for opening only at certain times and only cooking a certain amount well below demand.

Hotel Star Thathari bazar, Near Nawabpur Bazar. Does fantastic Beryani & Goat Leg Roast (ask for it).

Bismillah Kabab, Address-Nazira Bazar

Jharna Grill, In Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel. The top restaurant in the hotel serves very good seafood. Expect to pay Tk 3,000 for a 3 course meal with drinks. The hotel has other good restaurants too.

Cafe Jheel, opposite the National press club. Serves good local dishes for the budget traveler. Expect to pay Tk 150-200 for a 3 course meal. Although you can possibly get lunch/dinner for as low as Tk 60.

Cafe Gulistan
, 5 minutes north of Al Razzaque. This small restaurant serves up good, clean Bangladeshi food and always had a vegetarian option. Very friendly and honest staff. 50-200 taka.

Gulshan/Banani/Baridharaare areas packed with crowded trendy and upscale restaurants, a magnet for the Dhaka elite who like good food or just want to be seen in their shiny new cars.

A&W, The north-east corner of Gulshan 1 Circle. Yes, the American chain, and in full swing. A burger, fries and rootbeer float will set you back nearly BDT.300, which seems to be no problem for the well-off young Bangladeshi teens that fill the tables. The pumpin' jukebox filled with Backstreet Boys adds/detracts from the experience.

Andersen's of Denmark, House 34, Road 136, Gulshan Circle I. 11:30-midnight, Fridays 14:00-midnight. Excellent ice cream such as mint chocolate chip, oreos & cream and banana fudge, sundaes and milkshakes, cappuccinos, espressos and hot chocolate. Resist the urge to spend the entire day here. Attached to a fast food restaurant ('Chicken King') serving fried chicken and steaks. Tk 80-260.

Bamboo Shoot, Gulshan avenue (upstairs from Agora department store). A Chinese/Thai restaurant that prides itself in offering 'authentic' cuisine, and this is backed up by the number of Chinese expats seen eating there on any given night.

Bella Italia, Gulshan 2 (2nd floor of the Eastern Bank Limited building - beside Shoppers' World). Located near Gulshan circle 1. The proprietor was employed in the restaurant business in Italy and this place serves fairly authentic thin-crust pizzas and pastas. Mains are around Tk 300-600.

Bittersweet Cafe, House 10, Road 53,Gulshan 2 (On the first floor). noon-00:30 daily. Famous for the cupcakes, the milk shakes, the cheese cake and other pastries. A wide range of sandwiches and other extrem tasty dishes are also available. Free WLAN is also available and the comfortable sofa and homelike atmosphere. Food items 200-300 Taka, Cupcakes around 160 Taka.

CoFi 11, House 6A, Road Number 113, Gulshan-2 Behind the Delvista Grameenphone Center opposite of Agora. 11:00-00:00 daily. Offers different coffee specialities made from imported beans as well as exotic drinks such as Lemogini, Shikanjee, Guava Frappe, Mango Yogurt & Mandolito. CoFi 11 has a beautiful terrace with nice view over Gulshan. They also have brownies, waffles, local dishes and sandwiches.

Free WiFi is also available as well as occassional live musical performances. They have recently opened a branch in Chittagong - 36/7 CDA Avenue overlooking the forest hill. A new miniature CoFi 11 has just opened up at House # 11, Road # 68, Gulshan-2. Its on the same road that has the rear entrance of the American Club. Free WiFi 150-300.

Dhanshiri, Gulshan 2 beside the Westin Hotel. The food is good and they serve decent local stuff. However, make sure to check prices on the menu before ordering and examine the bill afterwards. There are better places to get Bengali food, but Dhashiri's location is especially convenient.

Also, its a local trick by the staff to say that the requested dish is not available and would serve you the same thing with some different name and a higher price. 100-400 Taka.

El Torro, House 1A, Road 138, Gulshan I. A Mexican restaurant serving burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and the like. Mains around 250-300 Taka.

Fakruddin, Bir Uttam AK Khandakar Road, Gulshan-1, Dhaka in the road that goes from Gulshan-1 circle into the direction of Badda. 10:00-22:00. Famous for the Biryani. Usually very crowded on weekdays during lunchtime. Mains around 120-250 Taka.

Gulshan Khabar Ghar, Road 52, Plot 48-49 at Gulshan-2 circle, next to Gulshan police barrack. 06:00-afternoon. Local food and very reasonable prices, delicious Naan and usually safe for the foreign stomach. Mains around 150 Taka.

Half Past Eleven, House 67/C, Road 11, Block E, Banani take Banani Road 11 eastward towards Gulshan bridge, the restaurant will be on your left before the junction of Road 11 and Road 12. 11:00-23:00 daily. Offers different fast food, grill and tandoori dishes. From western style Chickens, Burgers, Sandwiches, Hot Subs, Fish 'n Chips, T-bone Steaks to Tandoori and Asian delights. They serve Movenpick ice creams as well as coffees. Free WiFi. 200-500 Taka for a meal.

Heritage, House 10, Road 109, Gulshan-2. Run by British-Bangladeshi celebrity chef Tommy Miah, this Mugal decor restaurant features Bangla-fusion cuisine. 500-700 Taka.

Khushboo, House 60/B, Road 131, Gulshan-1. 10:30-22:30. Cozy interior and delicious local and chinese food. 200-500 Taka.

La Forchetta, House #10, Road-53, Gulshan Circle-2 at Gulshan Avenue, near Gulshan-2 circle, at the corner of Road 53, on the first floor. Serves fairly authentic thin-crust pizzas and pastas. 300-600 Taka.

Mermaid Cafe, Gulshan Circle-2 The cafe overlooks Gulshan-2 circle. The Cafe is on the north-east ern section of buidlings, on the 3rd floor. You enter through a shopping centre specialising in bathroom/home accessories. The stairs are at the back. This is the Dhaka version of the wonderful Cox's Bazar Mermaid Cafe chain. The restaurant is large, and has some interesting view over Gulshan-2 Circle. 500-1000 Taka for mains, up to 3000 Taka for lobster.

Oh Calcutta, House #49 Road #11, Banani. An Indian restaurant serving Bengali cuisine especially of West Bengal.Here delicious veg and non-veg Bengali food is available. A meal typically costs BDT 600.

Roll Express, House 34, Road 21, Block B, Banani. 10:00-23:00. Big range of different rolls and dosa and a nice garden to sit outside. 200-400 Taka.

Sajna, House 14, Road-11,Block–H, Banani. noon-22.30. Indian restaurant with a very elegant interior and authentic indian food.500-700 Taka.

Spaghetti Jazz, located at Gulshan-2 circle. Decent Italian restaurant offering pizza and pasta. A meal will cost 400-600 Taka, even for something fairly simple.

Spitfire, NWF-8, Gulshan North Avenue, Gulshan-2. Serves continetal cuisine. Expect to pay around 2000 Taka per person for a 3 course dinner. 700-3500 Taka. e

Steakhouse, House 8, Road 53, Gulshan-2. Serves steaks. Expect to pay at least 2000 Taka per person for a 3 course dinner. 800-1800 Taka.

Sura, Gulshan-2. Korean restaurant located across near the Egyptian embassy. Table-top barbecue and most popular Korean dishes are available, along with a selection of sushi and sashimi. Popular with Koreans and other expats. Expect to pay at least 500 Taka per person for a 3 course dinner.

Tekiya, Jamuna Future Park level 5, D-43, Pragati avanue, Baridhara. Serves Japanese cuisine. 200-980 Taka.

Uttara, Located besides Dhaka's international airport also called Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport and Airport Train Station. Best place to traversals for easy moving to other places by rail or plane. Also packed with good hotels,restaurants and coffee shops. Here you will get some good continental, Mexican, Chinese, Thai and some good seafood restaurants.

Mainland China, Floor No 15, Dhaka - Mymensingh Hwy, Dhaka. 12.30pm-12.30am. International franchisee and one of the best and original Chinese restaurant which is rare in Dhaka. Per person price range: 1500-2500 Taka.

George's Cafe, House 02, Road No 10, Sector 01, Uttara, Dhaka 1230. 11.00am-11.00pm. A slice of New York in Dhaka. A decent cafe with excellent ambiance. 300-500 Taka.

Lake Terrace, Floor No 5, House -25/e, Lake Drive Road, Sector -7, Uttara, Dhaka -1230. 11.30am-10.30pm. Free WiFi. Rooftop and lake side restaurant which serve finest steaks, seafood, pasta and few famous Malaysian dishes. Amazing food and view.

Only continental restaurant in uttara and comparatively low price then other similar restaurants like in gulshan/banani which is one of the reason that people from different places and countries visit by. Starters are around 350 taka($4), mains starts from 400 taka($5), steaks are around 900 taka($11), and surprisingly lobsters starts from 1000 taka($14). Per person price range: 700-2000 Taka/$8-$30.

Kabab Factory, House,2. Lake Drive Road, Rabindra Sarani, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka-1230. 12.30pm-11.30am. Variety of kebab. Famous in uttara, even peoples from different areas come and visit this restaurant. Per person price range: 500-1800 Taka.

Thai Emerald, House 54, Road No 2, Sector 3, Uttara, Dhaka 1230. 11.30am-10.30pm. Original Thai recipes and cooks. decent place and environment. Per person price range: 700-1800 Taka.

Mesquite Grill, House # 4 (Ground Floor), 5 Rd No 5, Sector 1, Dhaka 1230. 10.00am-11.00pm. A Mexican restaurant serving burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and pizza(mostly recommended). Per person price range: 600-1400 Taka.

Xinxian. 10.00am-11.00pm. low budget and indian style chinese restaurant. Per person price range: 400-1200 Taka.

La Bamba, Rabindra Sarani,Sector 7 Dhaka 1230. 10.00am-11.00pm. Cozy interior and delicious local/indian kebab and naan. Per person price range: 300-600 Taka.

Star Kabab - Opposite of Abahani Club playground and on Shat Maszid Road. Famous for its beef and mutton Kabab.

Star Hotel & Restaurant- At Dhanmondi Road 2. Also famous for its Kabab and Biriani.

Xinxian- Dhanmondi 27 and Shankar crossing. One of the more luxurious restaurant in Dhaka which has been established lately.

Jeni Kabab- An old and famous restaurant for Kababs.

Kozmo Lounge - A very cozy hangout joint at Dhanmondi 4/A. The cafe sometimes arrange quality musical performances.

Mama Halim - New Circular Road 2nd Floor,(Opposite of Aarong)Moghbazaar, Sells: biryani, kabas cakes, ice cream, biscuits, fruit and, randomly, gifts.

Coopers- Kalabagan. Very famous for cakes and fast food.

Cafe Mango- Dhanmondi Road No.4. The ambiance is fantastic.

Red Tomato- Dhanmondi Road-27. A medium quality old Chinese restaurant which serves both Chinese and Thai food.

BBQ Tonight- Best in Town kebab and Mughlai food. Mouth watering and unbelievably tasty. Located on Road 27, Dhanmondi.

Nandos- A famous franchise located at Dhanmondi road 27.

Pizza Hut- Opposite of Abahani Club playground and on Shat Maszid Road.

VOOT- An upscale restaurant with a haunted theme (VOOT-meaning ghost in Bengali),high quality food, right next to the well known Rifles Square Market.

KFC- A famous franchise located at Dhanmondi road 7/A.

There is a party network between the different expat clubs - Dutch Club, Canadian Club, Nordic Club, International Club, American Club, etc. and some Bangladeshi clubs, Heritage, Privilege, etc.. These clubs usually require membership to enter, or befriend a member and have them sign you in. From there, you can purchase a book of tickets or a cash card and then use it to order your drinks.

Although alcohol is most easily available at the international clubs and top hotels, there are quite a few local places to find a drink for the enterprising traveller. Local bars are to be found in most neighbourhoods but can be difficult to locate due to lack of advertising.

Popular brands of beer (Heineken, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Foster's etc) and major types of liquor are available at these places, and at much lower prices than at hotel bars.

H. Kabir & Co., Ltd. (The duty paid shop in Mohakhali), 12 Abbas Garden, New Airport Road. Su-Th 09:30-16:30. This off-licence is only permitted to sell alcohol to passport-bearing foreigners or their drivers who bring their passports in when they purchase.

La Diplomat at Road 20, House number 7, near Gulshan 1. Don't expect to be rubbing shoulders with any French ambassadors, however.
The Dip, like most other Bengali bars, is a smoke-filled darkened room where many of its patrons would rather not be recognized too easily. Definitely an experience, nonetheless.

Beers cost upwards of Tk 150 and "tots," which are single ounce servings of gin, vodka or whiskey, are available from Tk 70(local brands)-Tk 200. Female patrons may feel slightly uncomfortable.

It is important to be careful to plan accordingly when arriving in Dhaka, as unlike India and Nepal, there is very little tourist infrastructure, and it can be difficult to find a decent hotel simply on a whim. Some places will say Hotel and only be a place to eat, while most of the really cheap hotels, especially in and around the Old City, are residents only, which means they will not rent rooms to foreigners.

Hotel Grameen, 22 Nawabpur Rd. A big hotel on busy Nawabpur Rd, just south of Bangsal Rd. Tk 60-150.

Hotel Sugandha, 24 Nawabpur Rd. Its cheap and it's what to be expected of a cheap hotel, not very exciting or hygienic. Tk 100-350.

Hotel Zakaria International (Zakiria Hotel), 35, Gulshan Road, Mohakhali C/A, Dhaka 1212. Value for money. The rooms are clean and en-suite. double 30/40 no AC/AC.

Hotel Al-Razzaque, 29/1 North South Rd (Nazira Bazaar). Rooms very small - only enough room for single bed + 1 metre more width to walk to toilet which is about 1 metre wide by 1.5m long and squat toilet - not much room to manouver or shower. Sheets are grey/old but do appear as though they've been washed. From Tk 350 or 650 much more expensive than old wikitravel page. Several hotels within 0.5km from here.

Hotel White House, 155, Santinagar Near Siddheswari Circle. In a central location, very close to Kamalapur main train station, and Sayadabad bus terminal serving the eastern side of Bangladesh Sylhet and Chittagong. Rooms have air con ($36 for double w, $22 w/o), TVs and most importantly free Wi-Fi Connection with a decent speed!.....

Hotel Motijheel 28/i Toyenbee circular Road, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000, near Dainik Banglar mor, price Tk. 300-600
Hotel Shadman International, 165, Nawabpur Rd, (Near National Stadium), without TV, Non-AC; 550Tk with TV, non-AC, nice budget room 04.2017

If you're staying long term, flat shares or furnished apartments as well as guesthouses in Gulshan and Banani are widely available. Most foreigners find a flat share (around 200$/month) through an advertisement in one of the expat clubs.

If you want to rent your own place, advertisements for apartments are usually directly affixed in front of the respective building or on one of the trees in the streets. Air conditioning is standard in mid-range hotels as well as in apartments in Gulshan, Baridhara and Banani.

Ambrosia Guest House, in Dhanmondi Residential Area, tel:+880 2 (0)966850/9665760. The room rates are 45, $55 and $65 per night, with breakfast and free broadband Internet connection from the rooms. The ambiance is very nice. It also boasts of a small piece of greenery within its boundaries. And also, for Kebab lovers it is just bang behind Star Kebabs. The variety in the cuisine is limited but, you have the option of asking the chef to cook according to your preference.

Richmond Hotel & Suites, House -02, Road -10, Sector-01, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh,Closest hotel to Dhaka International Airport. Richmond Hotel & Suites is only 1.3 kms from the Dhaka Airport and provides a balance of excellent service & affordable prices. This newly built hotel provides complimentary breakfast, airport shuttle and free Wi-Fi internet access in all rooms & public areas. $40++(Taka 3200++).

BRAC Centre Inn, 75 Mohakhali Dhaka 1212, +880-2-988 6681 & 82. Near to the diplomatic enclave overlooking the Gulshan lake. A hotel that probably usually caters for business trips due to its location and facilities such as conference rooms. This will mean however,that your rooms will have as standard, air-con, TVs and en-suit. There is also a restaurant serving both local and international cuisine. Rooms from: Tk 4,100-5,460 ($60-80).

Green House Guesthouse, Road 13, House 6, Baridhara Diplomatic Zone Located within walking distance from some foreign missions to Bangladesh. Prices range between 50 and 75 $ and include breakfast and free Wi-Fi internet access.

Eastern House, House Number 04, Road Number 24, Gulhan-1. Has internet braodband in every room and breakfast is included in the price. Rooms from: Tk 3,420-6,156 ($50-90).

Grand Prince Hotel. This hotel is located in Mirpur 1 near the Grameen Bank making it popular amongst interns. Breakfast is included with rooms. Internet is available in the lobby at 50 Tk per hour. Rates from Tk 1,368-6,840($20-$100).

Ideas Manzil, House -19, Road -79, Gulshan-2, Dhaka, Bangladesh From Zia international Airport Kuril Bissha Road to American Embassy then to Gulshan-2 then next to Italian Embassy Road-79, House-19. Ideas Manzil could be called Bangladesh's first "heritage accommodation," meaning it is the kind of place which attempts to display and preserve the richness and heritage of Bangladeshi culture. Rates from Tk 5,265 ($65) $65-75.

Hotel de Crystal Garden, House number 28, Road number 63, Gulshan-2 Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh. All rooms are air conditioned, en-suite and has cable TV. In close proximity you can find the American,Australian, British and a few other international clubs where you are likely to be able to get a beer. $50-80.

Grand Azad Hotel. 55 Purana Paltan. Located only 500 meters away from the main city and some of the main tourist attractions. Newly built modern hotel with facilities including a gym, lounge, restaurant, snooker room and an on site beauty salon. Prices from $37-106.

Marriott Guesthouse, House-5, Road-54/A, Gulshan-2. Very central Guest House within walking distance of most European embassies, Banani and the Gulshan-2 circle. The Guest House is located in a quiet side street and offers a broad range of services (e.g. airport pick up, free internet, breakfast also included). $50-60.

Regent Guest House, House 100, Road 13/C, Block-E, Banani. Nice central Guest House, central and quiet neighborhood. $50-80.

Tropical Daisy, House-31/B, Road-35/A, Gulshan-2. Cozy Bed&Breakfast in quiet, central location and right next to the Banani lake and very close to the diplomatic area as well as many restaurants and shops. Apartments with kitchen are also available. $50-80.

Bengal Inn, House 7, Road 16, Gulshan-1 near BRAC university, post office and Gulshan-1 circle. Boutique hotel in a not too busy side street at Gulshan 1. Offers different services like WiFi, airport service and fitness center. $110-200.

Dhaka Regency Hotel & Resort, Airport Road,Nikunja 2,Dhaka 1229,Bangladesh,The closest 5 star business hotel from the international airport. Dhaka Regency offers 214 rooms and 24-hours multi-cuisine dining, live performance bar lounge, Thai spa center, health club and a Mediterranean hookah lounge. Dhaka Regency has 8 B&E venues located on various levels in various sizes to cater up to 1500 Persons. A team of meeting planners are available to arrange corporate meetings, seminars, banquets, exhibition or wedding functions. $125-1200.

Hotel Sarina, Plot # 27, Road # 17, Banani,in the diplomatic area of town. 5* hotel, all rooms have high speed internet connection along with dedicated port for laptop, mini bar , in room safe and satellite TV. Has an Italian restaurant on site. $110-450.

Hotel Orchard Plaza, 71 Nayapaltan Rd, Motijhee. Built in 2003 it's one of the newer top end hotels in town. Rooms are equipped with complimentary Internet, and it's comfortable and clean with super friendly staff. The restaurant on the 11th floor is also good and has broad city views. $70-150, but immediate 30% discounts are offered.

Lake Castle Hotel, House 1A, Road 68/A, Gulshan 2,in the diplomatic area of town. Next to the Gulshan Park. Conference rooms, internet and barrier-free rooms are available. $100-180.

Lake Shore Hotel, Road 41, House 46, Gulshan 2,next to Banani lake. Luxury 80-room hotel, rooftop pool, fitness, wireless and LAN Internet. Corporate discounts of 30% available. Probably the best medium sized 5* in the city. $100-220.

Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel, 107 Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue. This hotel has been running for over a decade now, and was, for a long time, considered one of the top hotels in the city. In room internet access is available and works well. The hotel also has a swimming pool to enjoy. A room on the Pacific floor (7/8) will cost $290 including breakfast. These rooms are a good choice since laundry and wired internet access are included in the price, plus a free bar in the Pacific lounge from 18:00-20:00. There are good restaurants and service is excellent throughout the hotel.

Quality Inn, Road No-50, House No-6,Gulshan-2,in the diplomatic area of town. Central hotel in the middle of the diplomatic area. Gym, internet and other services are available. $100-220.

Radisson Water Garden Hotel, Airport Road,15 miles from downtown, immediately outside the diplomatic enclave but close to the International airport. Huge luxurious hotel sprawling over seven acres of manicured grounds and gardens with water features. The hotel is almost a resort as it has a large outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, spa and even a golf course.

Probably the best 5* Hotel in Dhaka but unfortunately no stores and restaurants are in walking distance and to reach Gulshan or Banani without own car is difficult because of the lack of public transportation and rickshaw ban in main streets. Very expensive. Excellent food in the restaurants. $350-900.

Ruposhi Bangla Hotel formerly Dhaka Sheraton, 1 Minto Road. This hotel has been running for over a decade now, and was, for the longest time, considered one of the top hotels in the city. It was part of the Sheraton group but not quite comparable with 5* Sheraton's you would find in other countries. Internet access in the room is expensive. Room service choice is fairly limited.

Six Seasons Hotel, Road 96, House 19, Gulshan 2,7km from the airport. Overlooking the Gulshan Lake and park on one side and with panoramic views from 15 floors. Salt-water, hanging, transparent, infinity outdoor swimming pool, spa, and other health club facilities. Bunka and Vinno Shaad restaurants as well as a lobby cafe. USD160-350.

The Westin, Plot-01, Road 45, Gulshan-2, Dhaka 1212,in the diplomatic area of town. - relatively new, modern, clean, great service, and would be at home in any major western city. However, extortionately expensive - over US$10 for a small beer! USD170-240 in winter, varies seasonally.

Dhaka isn't terribly unsafe, but as in any huge city you should keep aware of your surroundings and try not to walk around at night, especially females travelling alone. There's a very large number of people living on next to nothing in the city, and while the vast majority are friendly there's undoubtedly a few that would love to help you part with some of your seemingly abundant wealth.

As a foreigner, many beggars will surround you in Gulshan and Banani. Especially children who will try to sell stickers and, if you are not interested in their items, will ask for money or food and try to make you buy some more expensive items in one of the supermarkets or small stores.

But before giving something to them, consider that by giving money or buying expensive items, which they will probably resell, that in many cases these children are trained or forced to beg and have to give all the money or items to the person who organises them. So be aware of this and the fact that your gesture of goodwill will maybe support these structures and exploitation.

Be careful when you see a group of Hijras - Hermaphrodites or Transvestites. Usually they are rare in Bangladesh, but their begging can be very aggressive.

There has been a recent rash of incidents in which some foreigners have been targeted for bag snatchings while riding rickshaws. Often these have occurred at night, after 23:00. If you must be out after this time please do your best to leave your valuables at your friends' places or hotel and you can pick them up in the morning.

The simplest way to reduce your potential loss is to not leave with valuables in the first place if you anticipate the need to travel after 23:00. The safest mode for travel for a tourist is to hire a yellow cab. These can be rented for a trip as well as by the day. Be sure to write down the license plate number.

The greatest danger probably comes from speeding buses and rickshaws - keep well alert when walking along main roads.

Being the capital, it's the area most affected during hartals, and you should do your best to keep a low profile during times of political unrest. Avoid any sort of large gatherings, even positive ones, as there's a good chance you'll become the centre of attention and you probably don't want that from a group of raucous chanters.

Pollution is, compared to other countries in the subcontinent, not very high because most vehicles are run by gas. But dust can be a problem, especially during winter when rain is rare. It's not uncommon to see people with face masks on, and at the very least you should carry a handkerchief with you to cover your mouth and nose during rickshaw rides.

Some places such as Mohammadpur are hot spots for drugs, narcotics, etc. Don't answer to the people along the streets.

Internet Wi-Fi is now widely available in all the mid-to-high range hotels, coffee shops and restaurants all over Dhaka and its suburbs. You won't see too many internet cafes in Dhaka because the use of Wi-Fi & 3G is widespread. Internet cafes hidden in the various shopping complexes - ask around. Tk 20-30 per hour, but be careful, anti-virus programms are not widely used.

So think twice before tipping any sensitive data on a public computer or in a cyber cafe. You can also purchase a local SIM card and get 3G Internet on your device. For example from Banglalink, Grameenphone , Robi, Airtel. Wimax is also available from providers like banglalion,qubee with good coverage. You can get both prepaid and postpaid connection.

Post There are many Post Offices in every area. Working hours are 09:30 to 14:30. Some big Post offices also have evening shifts from 15:00 to 19:00. Bangladesh Post is pretty good. The cost of sending a letter is very reasonable. The main Post Office (Dhaka G.P.O) is situated at Paltan, near to Gulistan and is open from 09:00 to 19:30.

You can send Registered and normal letters, Parcel, E.M.S(Express Mail Service) from there at a reasonable price. It's better to send a parcel via E.M.S because it goes faster.

Visit Places In Dhaka

- The Ashulia Lake - North of Dhaka

- Bogra - 220 km away from Dhaka, the capital of ancient Bangla

- Comilla - World War Cemetery, Kotbari Baddha Bihar, BIRD, Salban Bihar

- Cox's Bazar - World's longest sea beach.

- Gopalgonj - birthplace of the father of the nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman

- Rejendrapur National Park — 40 km north of Dhaka, vast (1,600 acres) national recreational forest with much wildlife

- Sundarbans, Satkhira, 350km from Dhaka.

If you feel the need to escape and take a break from the chaos of Dhaka, Songargon, about 29 km. from Dhaka offers you the chance to do just that. The town has a few worthwhile sights that are separated from one another and whilst going from sight to sight, you have the opportunity experience rural life and take in the less chaotic surroundings.

Sonargaon is one of the oldest capitals of Bengal. It was the seat of Deva Dynasty until the 13th century. From then onward till the advent of the Mughals, Sonargaon was a subsidiary capital of the Sultanate of Bengal.

The main places of interest in Sonargaon are the ruins of Panam Nagar, the local crafts museum or the Lok Shilpa Jadughar (charges an entrance fee), the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin, the Goaldi Mosque, and the shrines of Panjpir and Shah Abdul Alia.

The first two lie on one side of the Dhaka-Chittgong Highway and the rest lie on the other side. Once at Mograpara, a rickshaw may be hired for sightseeing. It is best to hire the same rickshaw for a fixed amount (BDT 200-250) to visit all the places in Sonargaon. Most rickshaw pullers know the more popular destinations like Panam Nagar, the Lok Shilpa Jadughar, etc.

Some may not know of the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin or the Goaldi Mosque and the shrines. Usually rickshaw drivers who are locals from the village know all of these places.

Frequent bus services to Sonargaon operate from Gulistan, Saidabad and other bus stands in Dhaka. Tickets may be bought on roadside counters. Mention your destination as Mograpara as you might end up at the Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel instead. The price of the ticket from Gulistan bus stand is Tk 35.

Hajiganj is another place of historical interest, situated about 10 kms from Mograpara bus stand. However, the above mentioned places usually take up most of the day and it is best to return to Dhaka before evening. Sonargaon and Hajiganj may be combined into a single day if one sets off very early from Dhaka.

As the capital of the People's Republic of Bangladesh, Dhaka is the home to numerous state and diplomatic institutions. The Bangabhaban is the official residence and workplace of the President of Bangladesh, who is the ceremonial head of state under the constitution. The National Parliament House is located in the modernist capital complex designed by Louis Kahn in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar.

The Gonobhaban, the official residence of the Prime Minister, is situated on the north side of Parliament. The Prime Minister's Office is located in Tejgaon.

Most ministries of the Government of Bangladesh are housed in the Bangladesh Secretariat.The Supreme Court, the Dhaka High Court and the Foreign Ministry are located in the Ramna area. The Defence Ministry and the Ministry of Planning are located in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar.The Armed Forces Division of Bangladesh Government and Bangladesh Armed Forces headquarters are located in Dhaka Cantonment.

Several important installations of Bangladesh Army are also situated in Dhaka and Mirpur Cantonments. Bangladesh Navy's principal administrative and logistics base BNS Haji Mohshin is located in Dhaka.Bangladesh Air Force maintains the BAF Bangabandhu Air Base and BAF Khademul Bashar Air Base in Dhaka.

Dhaka hosts 54 resident embassies and high commissions and numerous international organizations. Most diplomatic missions are located in Gulshan and Baridhara area of the city. The Agargaon area near Parliament is home to the country offices of the United Nations, the World Bank, the Asian Development Bank and the Islamic Development Bank.

Dhaka is the economic and business center of the country. The city's diverse economy registered a gross municipal GDP of US$128 billion (PPP) in 2017.Dhaka is one of the fastest growing startup hubs in the world.The city is the seat of the country's central bank Bangladesh Bank and the Dhaka Stock Exchange.

It has one of the largest concentrations of multinational companies in South Asia. Motijheel & Dilkusha is the main business district of the city. Commercial offices are also located at Kawran Bazar, Mirpur, Mohakhali, Gulshan, Bashundhara, Uttara and Banani area of the city.

Education, healthcare, engineering and consultancy services are major sectors of city's economy. Administrative and security services are also concentrated in the city, due to numerous institutions of the Government of Bangladesh.

Major Bangladeshi companies headquartered in the Dhaka include Beximco, Rahimafrooz, Summit, Biman Bangladesh Airlines, Petrobangla, Akij Group, Bashundhara Group, Jamuna Group, Transcom Group, Aarong, PRAN-RFL Group and Square Pharmaceuticals among others. Dhaka is the center of the Bangladesh textile industry. The technologically advanced Bangladeshi pharmaceutical industry is also concentrated in Dhaka.

Industrial belts within Greater Dhaka is a major manufacturing hub, bounded by the Buriganga, Meghna, Dhaleshwari, Balu and Turag Rivers. Exports from the garments sector in Dhaka amounted to over 36 billion US dollars in 2017.The city has a growing middle class, driving the market for modern consumer and luxury goods.Restaurants, shopping malls and luxury hotels continue to serve as vital elements in the city's economy.

The city has historically attracted numerous migrant workers.Hawkers, peddlers, small shops, rickshaw transport, roadside vendors and stalls employ a large segment of the population – rickshaw-drivers alone number as many as 400,000.Half the workforce is employed in household and unorganised labour, while about 800,000 work in the textile industry. The unemployment rate in Dhaka was 23% in 2013.

The city has a per-capita income of US$4.600,middle among the world's megacities and an estimated 29% of households live below the poverty line.Dhaka tremendously improved challenges of congestion and inadequate infrastructure. To fight rising traffic congestion and population, the national government has recently implemented a policy for rapid urbanization of surrounding areas and beyond by the introduction of a ten-year relief on income tax for new construction of facilities and buildings outside Dhaka.

The city, in combination with localities forming the wider metropolitan area, is home to over 15 million as of 2013.The population is growing by an estimated 4.2% per year, one of the highest rates amongst the Asian cities.The continuing growth reflects ongoing migration from rural areas to the Dhaka urban region, which accounted for 60% of the city's growth in the 1960s and 1970s.

More recently, the city's population has also grown with the expansion of city boundaries, a process that added more than a million people to the city in the 1980s.[70] According to the Far Eastern Economic Review, Dhaka will be home to 25 million people by the end of 2025.

The literacy rate in Dhaka is also increasing quickly. It was estimated at 69.2% in 2001. The literacy rate had gone up to 74.6% by 2011 which is significantly higher than the national average of 51.77%.

The city population is composed of people from virtually every region of Bangladesh. The long-standing inhabitants of the old city are known as Dhakaia and have a distinctive dialect and culture. Between 15,000 and 20,000 of the Rohingya, Santal, Khasi, Garo, Chakma and Mandi tribal peoples reside in the city.

Dhaka also has a large population of European, Chinese, Korean, Indian, Pakistani, Nepali, Burmese and Sri Lankan expatriates working in executive jobs in different industries. Dhaka is also home to over 300,000 Bihari refugees, who are descendants of migrant Muslims from eastern India during 1947 and settled down in East Pakistan.

The correct population is ambiguous; although official figures estimate at least 40,000 residents,it is estimated that there are at least 300,000 Urdu-speakers in all of Bangladesh, mostly residing in refugee camps in Dhaka.

Bengali, the national language, is spoken by the predominant majority population of Dhaka. English is the principal second language and widely spoken by educated peoples. There is a minority Urdu-speaking population from India and Pakistan. Islam is the dominant religion of the city, with 90% of the population being Muslim, and a majority belonging to the Sunni sect.

There is also a small Shia sect, and an Ahmadiya community. Hinduism is the second-largest religion and comprises 8.2% of the population. Smaller segments practice Christianity and Buddhism.The city also has Ismaili, Sikh, Hrishi & Bahá'í Faith communities.

As the most populous city of Bangladesh, Dhaka has a vibrant cultural life. Annual celebrations for Independence Day (26 March), Language Martyrs' Day (21 February) and Victory Day (16 December) are prominently celebrated across the city. Dhaka's people congregate at the Shaheed Minar and the Jatiyo Smriti Soudho to remember the national heroes of the liberation war.

These occasions are observed with public ceremonies and rallies in public grounds. Many schools and colleges organise fairs, festivals and concerts in which citizens from all levels of society participate.

Pohela Baishakh, the Bengali New Year, falls annually on 14 April and is popularly celebrated across the city.Large crowds of people gather on the streets of Shahbag, Ramna Park and the campus of the University of Dhaka for celebrations. Pahela Falgun , first day of Spring of Bengali month Falgun, of the Bengali calendar, also celebrated in the city in a festive manner.

This day is marked with colourful celebration and traditionally, women wear yellow saris to celebrate this day. This celebration is also known as Basanta Utsab , Spring Festival). Nabanna is a celebration for harvest, usually celebrated with food and dance and music on the 1st day of the month of Agrahayan of Bengali year.

Birthdays of Rabindranath Tagore and Kazi Nazrul Islam are observed respectively as Rabindra Jayanti and Nazrul Jayanti. Ekushey Book Fair, which is arranged each year by Bangla Academy and takes place for the whole month of February. This event is dedicated to the martyrs who died on 21 February 1952 in a demonstration calling for the establishment of Bengali as one of the state languages of former East Pakistan.

Muslim festivals of Eid ul-Fitr, Eid ul-Adha, Eid-E-Miladunnabi and Muharram; Hindu festivals of Durga Puja, Buddhist festival of Buddha Purnima; and Christian festival of Christmas witness widespread celebrations across the city.

The most popular dressing style for women are sarees or salwar kameez, while men usually prefer western clothing to the traditional lungi with Panjabi. Jamdani saree of Dhaka is part of its cultural heritage, originate from the Mughal era. Jamdani sarees are 100% hand weaved and a single saree may take as long as 3 months to complete.

Despite the growing popularity of music groups and rock bands, traditional folk music remains widely popular.The works of the national poet Kazi Nazrul Islam and national anthem writer Rabindranath Tagore have a widespread following across Dhaka.The Baily Road area is known as Natak Para (Theatre Neighbourhood) which is the center of Dhaka's thriving theatre movement. Indian and Western music and films are popular with large segments of Dhaka's population.

For much of recent history, Dhaka was characterized by roadside markets and small shops that sold a wide variety of goods.Recent years have seen the widespread construction of shopping malls.Two of the largest shopping malls in Dhaka and perhaps in the Indian subcontinent are Jamuna Future Park and Bashundhara City shopping mall.

Cricket and football are the two most popular sports in Dhaka and across the nation.Teams are fielded in intra-city and national competitions by many schools, colleges and private entities. The Mohammedan Sporting Club and Abahani are two of the most famous football and cricket teams, maintaining a fierce rivalry, especially in the Bangladesh Football Premier League.

Dhaka Metropolis cricket team represents Dhaka city in the National Cricket League, a region-based domestic first-class cricket competition in Bangladesh. Dhaka Premier League is the only domestic List A cricket tournament now in Bangladesh. It gained List A status in 2013–14 season.In domestic Twenty20 cricket, Dhaka has a BPL franchise known as Dhaka Dynamites.

Dhaka has the distinction of having hosted the first official Test cricket match of the Pakistan cricket team in 1954 against India.The Bangabandhu National Stadium was formerly the main venue for domestic and international cricket matches, but now exclusively hosts football matches.It was used during Pakistan colonial era for Test matches when no Bengalis were selected in team and a matting pitch was used.

It hosted the opening ceremony of the 2011 Cricket World Cup while the Sher-e-Bangla National Cricket Stadium, exclusively used for cricket, hosted 6 matches of the tournament including two quarter-final matches.Dhaka has also hosted the South Asian Games three times, in 1985, 1993 and 2010. Dhaka is the first city to host the games three times.

The Bangabandhu National Stadium was the main venue for all three editions.Dhaka also hosted the ICC World Twenty20, along with Chittagong and Sylhet, in 2014.

The National Sports Council, responsible for promoting sports activities across the nation, is based in Dhaka. Dhaka also has stadiums largely used for domestic events such as the Bangladesh Army Stadium, the Bir Sherestha Shaheed Shipahi Mostafa Kamal Stadium, the Dhanmondi Cricket Stadium and the Outer Stadium Ground.

The Dhaka University Ground and the BUET Sports Ground host many intercollegiate tournaments.They are also used as practice ground by different football clubs and visiting foreign national football teams.

There are two golf courses in Dhaka. One is situated at Army Golf Club and another is situated at Kurmitola Golf Club.



Tourism Observer

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