IVORY COAST: Comoé National Park

Comoe National Park is famous for its abundant and exotic plant life. There are hundreds of species of the most rare and fascinating plants that embellish the grounds of the park, which also showcases a few sections of a soothing rain forest and an almost hypnotically beautiful Comoe River.

The park houses botanical wonders like the shrub savannas that are a hard to find genus, seen mostly in the southern region. Comoe National Park boasts of topography that facilitates rich biodiversity and abundant natural charm. It is at its best when the floodplains surrounding the River Comoe convert into seasonal make-shift grasslands that are frequented by a variety of beasts from the adjoining forests for feeding.

Travelers flock here to catch rare snapshots of a hippopotamus or a stray African crocodile, apart from several varieties of rare migratory birds. The National Park also finds itself in the list of UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in Danger due to intense poaching and lack of efficient management.

The Comoé National Park is a Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Zanzan and Savanes Districts of north-eastern Ivory Coast.

It is the largest protected area in West Africa, with an area of 11,500 km2, and ranges from the humid Guinea savanna to the dry Sudanian zone.

This steep climatic north-south gradient allows the park to harbour a multitude of habitats with a remarkable diversity of life. Some animal and plant species even find their last sanctuary in some of the different savanna types, gallery forests, riparian grasslands, rock outcrops or forest islands.

The park was initially added as a World Heritage Site due to the diversity of plant life present around the Comoé River, including pristine patches of tropical rain forest that are usually only found further south.As a well-eroded plain between two large rivers, the land in the area is home to relatively infertile soils and a moisture regime suitable to a richer biodiversity than surrounding areas.

In 2003 it was added to the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger due to poaching, absence of management, overgrazing of the park by cattle, problems that intensified after the outbreak of the First Ivorian Civil War.

The 41st World Heritage Committee Session (Krakow, 2-12 July 2017) has decided to take Comoe National Park off the List of World Heritage in Danger following improvements in the conservation of its fauna and habitat.

The area around the Comoé National Park was historically always sparsely populated.

Most likely due to the relative barenness of the soil, the presence of the river blindness disease around the Comoé river and the high density of Tsetse flies, which is a vector for sleeping sickness.In 1926 the area between the Comoé River and Bouna was declared Refuge Nord de la Côte d'Ivoire, which was enlarged later in 1942 and 53 to Réserve de Faune de Bouna, giving it some rudimentary protection.

The area west of the Comoé river was added to the property on 9 February 1968 combined with an elevation to National Park status with an area of 11,500 square kilometres (4,400 sq mi), making it one of the 15 largest National Parks in the World and the largest in West Africa.In 1983 the park was pronounced a biosphere reserve and a UNESCO World Heritage site, due to its unique biodiversity.

After the outbreak of the first Ivorian civil war the park was listed as a World Heritage Site in Danger in 2003, due to absence of management leading to poaching and overgrazing of the park by cattle.During the time between the two civil wars the park suffered greatly under intensive poaching.

After the end of the Second Ivorian Civil War the park was able to recover again with the presence of the OIPR (park management) and the re-inauguration of the research station.

The steep climatic north-south gradient comprises a multitude of habitats containing a remarkable diversity of life, making it the most biodiverse savanna in the world, and ranges from the dry Sudanian zone to the comparatively humid Guinea Savanna.

These habitats include for the most part different savannas, forest islands, gallery forests and riparian grasslands, thereby providing an ideal example of transitional habitats throughout various climatic zones.

The Comoé river, flowing throughout Côte d'Ivoire also allowed for various habitats and plant associations normally found further south to exist in the park, like patches of dense gallery forest in the vicinity of the river.

This variety of habitats throughout different zones and the vast area dedicated to the conservation of natural resources make it an ecological unit of particular importance and a UNESCO World heritage site.

Geomorphologically the park consists of large plains through which the Comoé River and its tributaries flow (Iringou, Bavé, Kongo). The Comoé river and its tributaries form the main drainage and the Comoé runs through the park for 230 kilometres (140 mi), with watercourses also draining to the Volta in the east.

There are also various permanent and semi permanent ponds distributed throughout the park, most of which dry out during the dry season. The soils are for the most part infertile and unsuitable for cultivation. Granite inselbergs also rise up to 600 metres (2,000 ft) within the park's area.

Comoé National Park has the most biodiverse savannah in the world and forms the northern limit for many animal species, like the yellow-backed duiker and bongo.There are a total of 135 mammal species in the park. This includes 11 species of primates like the olive baboon, green monkey, lesser spot-nosed monkey, Mona monkey, black and white colobus, olive colobus, white collared mangabey and chimpanzee.

A total of 17 carnivore species registered, but at least 3 species are believed to have become extinct in the park - cheetah, wild dog since and most recently lion.

There are also 21 species of artiodactyl present in the park including hippopotamus, bushpig, bongo, warthog, buffalo, kob, red-flanked duiker, bushbuck, waterbuck, roan antelope and oribi.

Threatened mammal species include the chimpanzee (EN), white-collared mangabey (EN), ursine colobus (VU), African elephant (VU), hippopotamus (VU), giant pangolin (VU), long-tailed pangolin (VU), leopard (VU), African golden cat (VU), Buffon kob (VU), bongo (NT), western hartebeest (NT), Defassa waterbuck (NT), bay duiker (NT), yellow-backed duiker (NT), olive colobus (NT).

There are over 500 species of birds, of which roughly 20% are inter-African migratory birds and another 5% palearctic migratory birds. Some prominent bird species include the Denham's bustard, yellow-casqued hornbill, brown-cheeked hornbill, hammerkop, black-winged stilt, various raptors, four of the six West African stork species and five vulture species.

The park also contains 36 out of the 38 of the iconic bird species found in Sudo-Guinean savannas.

The Comoé river and its tributaries contain at least 60 different species of fish and allow for an unusually high diversity of amphibian species for a savannah habitat with 35 described species. There are also a total of 71 described reptile species, of which three are crocodiles: the dwarf crocodile (Vulnerable), Nile crocodile and slender-snouted crocodile (Critically Endangered).

The floodplains around the river create seasonal grasslands that are optimal feeding grounds for hippopotamus and migratory birds.

The property contains around 620 plant species, composed of 191 ligneous species (62 trees, 129 shrubs and vines) and 429 herbaceous species, including 104 grasses.The park encompasses various transitional habitat, from forest to savannah, with various plant associations typical of more southern regions.

Gallery forests, open forests and riparian grasslands occur alongside all types of savannah, which occupy roughly 90% of the park.The forest is composed of many leguminous trees.

In the gallery forests Cynometra sp. is the most dominant genus while patches of dry forest islands are generally inhabited by Anogeissus leiocarpus, Antiaris africana, Isoberlinia doka, Cola cordifolia, the nationally threatened Chlorophora excelsa and Blighia unijugata. In the flood plains Hyparrhenia rufa is the most common species.

The Comoé National Park Research Station, located in the Comoé National Park, Côte d'Ivoire, was founded by Professor Karl Eduard Linsenmair in 1989/90. Its state of the art facilities, with electricity, running water, Internet and a large climatised laboratory make it one of the most modern field stations in Africa.

The research station was forced to close after the outbreak of the First Ivorian Civil War in 2002. After the end of the Second Ivorian Civil War in 2011 repairs at the station began and in 2014 the station had achieved again its full working capacity. The focus of the field-based research is on conservation, tropical ecology and behaviour.

The Comoé National Park was listed as a World Heritage Site in Danger in 2003 mainly due to an increase in poaching caused by the lack of management after the outbreak of the first ivorian civil war. After the end of the Second Ivorian Civil War and the stabilisation of the region the wildlife authority agency OIPR (Office Ivorien des Parcs et Reserves) has resumed their work in the Comoé National Park.

The OIPR applied to the Rapid Response Facility (RRF) for funding and was successful in being awarded a maximum grant of $30,000 to secure the park.The major challenges management faces are successful combating of poaching, reducing agricultural pressures and the renovation of the streets in the park for proper access control.

The main projects to combat these problems are the establishment of an efficient surveillance system in the park and close cooperation with local communities to reduce the pressures on the periphery of the park through participatory management and the establishment of sustainable income sources for the villagers.



Tourism Observer

IVORY COAST: Visit Ivory Coast, It Is An Interesting African Destination

Côte d'Ivoire or Ivory Coast is a country in West Africa with a southerly facing North Atlantic Ocean coast.

It is bordered by Ghana to the east, Liberia to the west, Guinea to the northwest, Mali to the north, and Burkina Faso to the northeast.

Close ties to France since independence in 1960, the development of cocoa production for export, and foreign investment made Côte d'Ivoire one of the most prosperous of the tropical African states, but did not protect it from political turmoil.

In December 1999, a military coup - the first ever in Côte d'Ivoire's history - overthrew the government.

Junta leader Robert Guei blatantly rigged elections held in late 1999 and declared himself the winner.

Popular protest forced him to step aside and brought runner-up Laurent Gbagbo into liberation.

Ivorian dissidents and disaffected members of the military launched a failed coup attempt in September 2002.

Rebel forces claimed the northern half of the country, and in January 2003 were granted ministerial positions in a unity government under the auspices of the Linas-Marcoussis Peace Accord.

President Gbagbo and rebel forces resumed implementation of the peace accord in December 2003 after a three-month stalemate, but issues that sparked the civil war, such as land reform and grounds for citizenship, remained unresolved.

Elections were finally held in 2010 with the first round of elections being held peacefully, and widely hailed as free and fair.

Laurent Gbagbo, as president, ran against former Prime Minister Alassane Ouattara.

On 2 Dec 2010, the Electoral Commission declared that Ouattara had won the election by a margin of 54% to 46%. The majority of the rest of the world's governments supported that declaration, but the Gbagbo-aligned Constitutional Council rejected it and then announced the country's borders had been sealed.

The presidential election led to the 2010–2011 Ivorian crisis and to the Second Ivorian Civil War. After months of unsuccessful negotiations and sporadic violence, the crisis entered a critical stage as Ouattara's forces seized control of most of the country.

By Apr 2011, pro-Ouattara forces had penetrated Abidjan and street-level combat between the two sides led to the capture of Gbagbo and the situation has now stabilised.

However, many governments are still advising their citizens against travel to Côte d'Ivoire even though several thousand UN peacekeepers and several hundred French troops remain in Cote d'Ivoire to support the transition process.

Tropical along coast, semiarid in far north; three seasons - warm and dry (November to March), hot and dry (March to May), hot and wet (June to October). The coast has heavy surf and no natural harbours; during the rainy season torrential flooding is possible.

Mostly flat to undulating plains; mountains in the northwest. Most of the inhabitants live along the sandy coastal region. Apart from the capital area, the forested interior is sparsely populated. The highest point is Mont Nimba (1,752 meters).

Lagunes (Abidjan) - the coastal lagoons area around the de facto capital of Abidjan

Northern Savanna (Bouaké, Comoe National Park) - the largely Muslim area held in recent years by rebel "New Forces"

Southwestern Forests (Taï National Park, Mount Nimba Strict Nature Reserve) - the tropical wet forest area inhabited by the Kru people bordering Liberia

Eastern Plantations (Yamoussoukro) - the partially cultivated area between Lac de Kossou and the border with Ghana

Abidjan - Remains the administrative center and other countries maintain their embassies there.

Korhogo - Rebel head quarters; otherwise idyllic, bursts with commerce during Feb - May because of flowing cotton and cashew trade.

Aboisso - Important mile stone on the route connecting Abidjan and Ghana trade route

Bouaké - the second largest city

Dabou

San Pedro - the second port city

Yamoussoukro - Although it has been the official capital since 1983, it is not the administrative centre.

Grand-Bassam - A coastal town full of colonial charm, often a retreat for local Ivorians seeking to escape the city life of Abidjan on the weekends.

Man - A town in the central west surrounded by hills and a great place for hiking up Mount Tonkoui.

Three National Parks are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

- Taï National Park

- Mount Nimba Strict Nature Reserve

Visa To Ivory Coast
All non CEFA country citizens visiting Côte d'Ivoire must obtain a visa before arrival.

The process is online at the Official Website for Visa.

Citizens of the United States can now apply for a tourist visa over the internet.

The website design is lacking and completing the application process may require you to translate some french.

Alternatively, Americans looking to travel to Côte d'Ivoire may contact the embassy in Washington D.C. directly

The Ivory Coast embassy of Conakry currently refuses to deliver visas to get from Guinea to Ivory Coast and the border is theorically closed.

Visiting Ivory Coast By Plane
The Felix-Houphouet Boigny International Airport (ABJ) has daily scheduled flights to and from Paris by Air France and Corsair, Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), Brussels (Brussels airlines), and Dubai (Emirates).

There are also semi-weekly flights to Cairo (Egyptian Air), Casablanca (Royal Air Maroc) and Johannesburg (South African Airways).

There are also regular flights to other West-African capitals.

The airport is a modern facility and increased security has shaken its old reputation as a place for travelers to be ripped off. Unfortunately, it's also one of the most highly taxed in West Africa, with an average of $90 in taxes and fees added to the cost of every international ticket.

Enter By Train
The train journey between Abidjan and Ouagadougou usually takes around 30 hours and costs 30'000 CFA for a one-way second class ticket.

Trains are packed with people and luggages as well as the incidental goats. Seats are rather uncomfortable. Nevertheless, this is an amazing experience that's well worth the price and back aches.

Be aware that pickpockets are very common on this train, especially when you're an obvious tourist.

Never leave your luggage unattended and don't go showing your newest smartphone or Breitling.

Enter By Car
It is ill advised to try to enter Côte d'Ivoire from Guinea, Liberia, Mali, or Burkina Faso.

The Ghanaian border is fairly secure. If you enter at Elubo, you can easily catch a shared taxi to Aboisso and then a bus to Abidjan.

There are about ten military check-points between the border and Abidjan so have your documents ready.

If you do not have proper documentation of your inoculations at the border you will be forced to pay a small fine and they will give you an injection at an on-site clinic.

Enter By Bus
Buses run daily between Abidjan and Accra. The service is offered alternating between the STC (Ghana) and its Ivoirian equivalent.

Enter By Boat
Abidjan has a beautiful evening ride on the lagoon in the city for tourists. It might not be breath taking, but is a very good pleasure trip.

Daily, hundreds of Ivorians take the lagoon route to reach offices on the port side.

Travelling Around Côte d'Ivoire
Inter-city travel in Côte d'Ivoire is usually more comfortable than travel in neighbouring African countries.

The roads are generally in good condition and the bus service is relatively modern. The down side is the very frequent military check-points which add hours to a trip.

Though the stops are a hassle, Ivoirian soldiers tend to be pretty professional and don't hassle non-French western travellers.

Soldiers in Ghana for example are much more likely to demand a bribe than in Côte d'Ivoire. Most western governments recommend that their citizens steer clear of Côte d'Ivoire.

This should be taken particularly seriously by people travelling on French passports. An Ivoirian soldier's attitude towards you will change very quickly when you explain that you are not French.

UTB - Union de Transports de Bouake offers frequent buses to most destinations of interest. Their bus stations are widely known in the cities and are semi closed compounds so travel is not a hastle.

Travel in Abidjan is the best when you have your own vehicle to travel around.

The roads are fairly good for the region, but traffic rules are flouted routinely, especially by taxis.

There is no lane discipline and traffic lights are merely suggestions. Traffic jams get bad at rush hour and some selfish drivers make things worse through illegal and often reckless maneuvers.

The police response to this is laughable, as they are unable to chase/punish the worst offenders and shake down people who aren't doing anything wrong.

Taxis are a great and easy way to get around in Abidjan. Just look for an orange coloured car and flag it down. Fares are very affordable: US $2-4 depending on the length of the journey. Always negotiate before you get in the taxi don't use the meter as you'll almost always pay more.

The official language and lingua franca is French, but there are 60 native languages as well.

The most widely spoken is Dioula. Other native languages include Baoulé, Bété, Sénoufo, Attié, and Anyin. But one cannot survive without French for longer time duration. And business travellers need French on their tongue to close any small deal.

Tourist villages, beaches, and photo safaris are some of the main tourist attractions to see in Côte d'Ivoire. Famous Mapouka dance

You can also climb a beautiful mountain called, 'Mount Nienokoue'.

It is 230 meters tall and consists mainly of forest and exotic animals. There are many breathtaking views. You can climb Mount Tonkoui in Man in the west of the country and see until Libera if the weather permits.

You can visit Tanu Sakkasu near Bouake and see how the black pottery is traditionally made.

Visit the Wananiere Village des Tisserands near Korhogo and learn how the traditional cloth is made.

You can buy traditional wooden masks, they all have spiritual meanings and can be either good or bad.

Good food is cheap and you can find very good restaurants in Abidjan.

You should get a vaccine for Hepatitis A before coming but even street foods are fairly clean.

Grilled "braisé" fish and chicken are very good and can be found on at outdoor restaurants called maquis .

Try the national dishes like "alloco" and "attiéké". Alloco is simply fried plantains, mostly accompanied by a spicy sauce called piment .

Attiéké is fermented cassava (yams) that looks like couscous but taste slightly sour this is often served with grilled chicken or fish and vegetables (tomatoes, onions, cucumber) and a must-try.

Usually white rice or french fries are starchy alternatives to alloco and attiéké as side dishes.

Another specialty is the excellent "shougouilla" a blend of charbroiled meat! You can always ask for extra vegetables, especially avocados, which are amazing during the season.

Service can take a while at a maquis, typically women cook and sell the food and men sell the drinks, so don't be surprised if you're billed separately for food and drinks.

Since one typically eats with one's hands at a maquis, usually they will have a sink or offer a bucket and soap for hand washing before and after you eat.

Note that locally people eat only with their right hands and kleenex are used for napkins.

Other kinds of restaurants[edit]
You can find most typical maquis food at more mainstream restaurants too, usually mixed with standard French and international dining options. In Abidjan, Lebanese food is another good offering, and there are several fancy (and expensive) French restaurants that are very good. Vietnames nems (fried spring rolls) are very popular and cheap.

When in doubt, skip getting a burger, local beef is very dry. Fish and lobster are usually freshly caught if you're near the coast. Fresh fruits, like mangoes, pineapple and papaya are everywhere, and are the best in the world when in season.

La nourriture "végétarienne"[edit]
Be aware that it's common for locals to say that dishes containing chicken or fish are vegetarian since they don't have "meat" in them, so it's helpful to clarify if you're looking to avoid it.

Tipping[edit]
A service charge is not included in the bill, and usually it's seen as acceptable to tip at a flat rate of 500-2000 CFA, depending on the size of the group and effort of the waiter.

Drink[edit][add listing]
It is recommended for visitors from the west to visit bars and night clubs with security. Havana Club and others are in Zone 4 or Zone Quatre. If you do go, be aware of prostitutes that will want to talk to you. Other places are in Treicheville and Cocody but you should have private transportation or a cab.

Palm wine[edit]
This is the cheapest drink and is locally fermented and served out of large water bottles. It will likely give you a wicked hangover if you can stomach the taste.

Beer[edit]
Almost every bar or restaurant will sell Flag, Castel, Touborg, Heineken and occasionally Bock beer. Only Bock is Ivoirian; the rest are either regional or from Europe. Flag is seemingly the most-popular brand.

Wine[edit]
Most of the wine here is imported from France and can be purchased for a reasonable price at any grocery store in Abidjan. Wine in restaurants is usually not very good and/or extremely overpriced.

Sleep[edit][add listing]
Some of the nicer, but more expensive and safe hotels in Abidjan are: Hotel Ivoire (Sofitel) in Cocody, Hotel Tiama in Plateau, the Golf Hotel in Riviera Golf, and there's a new Radisson Blu being built near the airport. Looking for something more charming and still very clean? Check out a wonderful hotel called La Licorne in Deux Plateaux, located behind the Total Station on the Rue des Jardins.

Learn[edit]
Work[edit]
Stay safe[edit]
Some areas of Ivory Coast currently suffer from a widespread issue of extortion by security forces. Security forces of all kind (army, police, gendarmerie, customs, anti-drug police) set-up illegal checkpoints where they stop cars and minibus and either find or create a reason to request money from the driver or it's passenger.

Most of the crime committed in Abidjan is by unemployed youth. Should you ever feel in danger it would be wise to seek the help of a middle-aged man. This older generation is often very contemptuous of young criminals and will likely help you out if you are being hassled.

Generally, Ivoirians will recognize the dangers to foreigners in their country and will often be very protective of naive travellers. This is especially true in the Abidjan neighbourhoods of Treichville and Adjame.

If you do drive at night do not stop fully at lights or signs. Beware of potential car jackers. Keep a brisk pace so they cannot carjack you.

Prostitution[edit]
Due to the high unemployment rate, prostitution was made legal. But only the exchanging sex for money, and only between adults (aged 18 and over). And Cote d'Ivoire has become a popular place for sex tourism. However, hiring a prostitute in Cote d'Ivoire is highly NOT recommended, due to the high rate of HIV/AIDS.

Stay healthy[edit]
HIV/AIDS has once reached epidemic proportions in the country, but has since seen huge improvements with an adult prevalence of 4.7%.

Neighboring Liberia and Guinea suffered under the Ebola crisis, but there have been no confirmed cases in Côte d'Ivoire and Ebola screenings are performed at all border crossings.

Respect[edit]
Although the country was previously referred to in English as "Ivory Coast", the country has requested that it be called "Côte d'Ivoire" (the equivalent in French). Pronouncing it "Coat di-VWAR" is close enough for an English-speaking person

IVORY COAST: Ivory Coast Struggles To Promote Tourism After Terror Attack

An Ivorian soldier stands guard on March 18, 2016 at the site of a jihadist shooting rampage at the beach resort of Grand Bassam.

It's exactly a week since al-Qaida gunmen opened fire indiscriminately on swimmers and diners last Sunday at a popular beachfront weekend getaway in Grand Bassam, the historic former capital of Ivory Coast.

Bassam, as the sleepy, pretty town is known, is a short 25-mile ride from the economic capital and main city, Abidjan. Bassam is much favored by local families and visitors, including children of all ages.

March 13 was a lazy, sweltering Sunday, as swimmers frolicked in the warm Atlantic Ocean waters, sunbathers enjoyed a day outdoors, and visitors and tourists sat down for lunch at hotels and restaurants overlooking the sea.

That's when al-Qaida in the Islamic Maghreb, by its own admission, claims its black balaclava-clad militants, toting heavy weapons, first sprayed the palm-fringed beach. They fired in and out of the water before turning their weapons from the beach to the diners.

At least 19 Ivorians and foreigners were killed in the carnage. One body, with a bullet to the head, washed up midweek, fueling concern that others may follow.

The deadly assault on Grand Bassam was the third in five months in West Africa on a former French colony. Mali's capital Bamako was first in November, with a siege on the Radisson Blu Hotel, favored by foreigners. Then the January siege in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, on the Splendid Hotel and Cappuccino cafe. Foreigners were among the 20 people killed in Bamako and 30 killed in Ouagadougou.

Analysts argue that Ivory Coast could have become the latest target of al-Qaida's regional franchise, in retaliation for the country's close relations with Paris. France intervened militarily in neighboring Mali in 2013, leading an offensive to dislodge extremist fighters who had occupied the north for about a year.

France retains a military presence in all three countries, with an army and air force base on the outskirts of Abidjan.

Officials Seek Stability

Now Grand Bassam's Etoile du Sud hotel and other beach side establishments have become the targets and Ivory Coast is reeling. This country, once an oasis of peace, security, stability and prosperity, is emerging from a devastating decade of political violence and a civil war. The economy was on the rebound.

The tourist industry is worried.

President Alassane Ouattara hastened to reassure his compatriots, expatriates and Ivory Coast's international partners and investors. On Wednesday, he took his entire team to Grand Bassam for their weekly cabinet meeting — in solidarity, the president said.

"We came to show our sympathy, our compassion to the victims. To their memory, to the families of the victims," Ouattara said.

"To show that Côte d'Ivoire will never forget them and that it's important for life to continue." Though he added, "Although we are mourning, we want everyone to know that Côte d'Ivoire is united and that Côte d'Ivoire remains a land of hospitality."

Earlier, Ouattara said Ivorians should not be intimidated by the attacks perpetrated by "cowardly terrorists" and that such actions would not be tolerated. After laying a wreath outside the Etoile du Sud hotel Wednesday, he said Ivory Coast would not allow terrorists to sabotage the country's economic recovery.

Over the past five years, Ivory Coast — the world's top cocoa producer — has seen record growth and foreign investment. Tourism was also picking up.

Commerce minister Jean-Louis Billon says he doesn't want to overstate the threat to the tourist industry posed by the militant attack.

"Of course we're worried," he says. "But, if you look at countries like Kenya or Tanzania, they have been affected in the past and investors didn't leave the country because of terrorism."

Billon says it's a collective battle. "No one is safe against terrorism. But we need our growth to develop our country and we won't stop our development because of terrorism." He says Ivory Coast refuses to give ground "to those who want the economy to collapse, because that's what they're looking for."

Investors Remain Confident

As if to bolster that confidence, potential investors from the U.S. Chamber of Commerce happened to be on a scheduled visit to Ivory Coast just when al-Qaida struck in the deadly assault.

The chamber's executive vice president, Myron Brilliant, said the attacks have not put them off. "In no way will that deter our investment and trade relations here in Côte d'Ivoire," he said.

"If anything, we feel very close to Côte d'Ivoire," he said, "because we have suffered our own attacks in our country, in the United States. And so we understand what's going on here, we understand the significance of it."

Brilliant addressed journalists after talks this past week with the Ivorian president and cabinet ministers on his organisation's wish to promote deeper investment and commercial ties between the U.S. and Ivory Coast.

He talked about expanding in areas such as energy, agrifood business, education, healthcare, travel and tourism. "There is a great need, a great opportunity for U.S. companies here in Côte d'Ivoire," Brilliant said.

Fighting talk.

The same has come from Ivory Coast's government, which has shifted up a gear and is full speed ahead after last Sunday's al-Qaida onslaught. The government has announced almost $1 million in immediate assistance to the hotel and transport industries in Grand Bassam, as well as craftsmen and other local businesses hard hit by the attacks.

The authorities have also promised to beef up security, with patrols already in place up and down the 10-mile stretch of Bassam's beachfront and beyond.

Security reinforcements were trucked in as VIP visitors, including presidents and top officials from neighboring West African countries and from the former colonial power, France, drove to Grand Bassam to lay wreaths in memory of those who perished.

An Economy Driven By Tourism

The charming town of coconut palms swaying in the Atlantic ocean breeze and elegant, wooden colonial houses, relies heavily on tourism – local and international. UNESCO, the U.N.'s education, scientific and cultural agency, has designated Grand Bassam a world heritage site.

The government's new security measures and assistance are cold comfort for Sylvie Kouao, although she thanked the president. Her beach restaurant — right by where the gunmen indiscriminately opened fire on adults and children — remains shut.

Kouao, 40, says they had to take cover, as terrified civilians were fleeing and dodging bullets. She has nightmares and is still trying to come to terms with the shock. What's most troubling, says Kouao, is that a male cousin is still missing. They haven't found him in or out of the water.

Clutching the hand of her 9-year-old son, Amadou, and stretching her other hand toward the almost-deserted beach, Kouao tells NPR that "life in Bassam is paralyzed. It has come to a standstill."

"But we can't just give up," she adds. "We have to stand up. We must not be fearful. We must have courage that life will return to normal."

Security forces camp in plastic chairs in front of Kouao's restaurant. Opposite is a makeshift memorial, covered in wreaths. Young men stand around in the shade by the beach, under a marquee erected for VIPs and other visitors who continue to pay their respects.

Among the locals with little to do is Abou Lavisse Decky, leader of the local Bassamois musical group, Akanzou. Decky and his fellow singers strike up, a cappella, as mourners approach a growing collection of wreaths.

Just a week ago, the singers were serenading diners and entertaining tourists up and down the stretch of seaside restaurants and hotels. Such activities came to an abrupt end during the attacks.

Now they're singing lyrics denouncing terrorism. "Non au terrorisme" — "no to terrorism" and "the attacks have robbed us of our jobs." Decky says, "I come here to sing today for the memory of the people who died. I sing for them, because terrorism is a bad thing."

As the group sings, "yako!" which simultaneously means "sorry" and "courage," Decky implores Ivorians and foreigners to take heart, have courage and return to Grand Bassam.

Pointing to the empty beachfront, Decky tells NPR, "If the beach is closed, the economy of Grand Bassam is closed. I will come back to sing with my group. It's my job, it's my job," he repeats in desperation. "I haven't another job. So if I don't come to sing, how can I have money to eat?"