ESWATINI: 2018 Umhlanga Reed Dance Start 28th Of August

The dates the biggest cultural event in Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) have been announced and a hive of colourful activity will soon descend upon the country in the form of the festival known as ‘Umhlanga’ or Reed Dance.

The Festival is set to start on the 28th of August, with the main day (Day 7) set to take place on Monday 3rd September.

It will be on this day when the main ceremony occurs, with the dancing attended by the King signalling a public holiday in Eswatini.

This ceremony is an amazing spectacle and a centuries-old tradition where the Kingdom’s unmarried and childless females present their newly cut reed to the Queen Mother to protect her residence.

The King sometimes makes use of the occasion to publicly court a prospective fiancée or Liphovela.

When the main day arrives, young women from all over Eswatini and beyond her borders converge on the royal residence in Ludzidzini for this momentous occasion.

Maidens gather in groups and head out along riverbanks to cut and collect tall reeds, bind them and return to Ludzidzini, the Royal Homestead in Lobamba.

Tens of thousands of maidens, led by Swazi princesses, provide a sea of colour as they dance and sing, proudly carrying their cut reeds. Traditionally, virginity is a pre-requisite for participation as it is considered taboo for an ‘impure’ woman to cut the reed.

Residents of this tiny mountainous Kingdom are intensely proud of their deep culture and taking part in the Festival is a proud and privileged moment for all the family.

The highlight of the event is the reed-giving ceremony – one of Africa’s largest and most colourful cultural spectacles.

The maidens gather at Ludzidzini dressed in traditional attire; bright short beaded skirts with colourful sashes revealing their bare breasts to dance and sing and celebrate the unification of the Kingdom’s women.

His Majesty King Mswati lll joins the celebrations to pay tribute to the maidens.

At the end of the day, the maidens present their cut reeds to the Queen Mother, Ndlovukazi, and the protective Guma (reed fence) around her homestead will be rebuilt.

The Umhlanga Festival is a visual spectacle that bonds this small but perfectly formed nation. Its ever- increasing popularity defies the apparent decline of traditional cultures elsewhere in Africa.

Witnessing this festival is a truly unique experience. Visitors are welcome, but are vastly outnumbered by the participants! This is a traditional event that allows spectators, not one that exists for spectators.

See it for yourself and experience Eswatini’s unique blend of ancient culture, pristine wilderness, year round wildlife and spirit of adventure!

Umhlanga Reed Dance

This is Eswatini’s best known cultural event, and has a more open feel than the Incwala. In this eight-day ceremony, young girls cut reeds, present them to the Queen Mother (Indlovukazi) – ostensibly to repair the windbreak around her royal residence – and then dance in celebration.

Up to 40,000 girls take part, dressed up in brightly coloured attired – making it one of the biggest and most spectacular cultural events in Africa.

The proper festivities kick off on day six, when dancing gets under way in the afternoon.

Each group drops their reeds outside the Queen Mother’s quarters then moves to the main arena, where they dance and sing their songs. The dancing continues on day seven, when the king is present. This is the main day that most visitors attend. Each regiment dances before him in turn.

Little can prepare you for the sheer scale of the pageantry, with column upon column of girls advancing like vast ululating centipedes across the parade grounds of Ludzidzini, each dissolving in turn into the pulsating mass of bodies around the royal kraal.

Up close, it’s an almost overwhelming immersion in noise and colour, as the girls stamp, sing and sway in step, anklets rattling, naked flesh and dazzling costume blurring into a living, chanting kaleidoscope.

The warrior escorts, adorned with cow tails and clutching knob-stick and shield, are sternly intent on their duties and seem contemptuous of tourists, but the girls are all smiles.

It’s Eswatini’s biggest holiday and, after days of tramping the hillsides, cutting reeds and camping out, they’re determined to party.

Today the Umhlanga is as well attended as ever. Indeed cultural historians marvel at how its ever-increasing popularity in Eswatini defies the apparent decline of traditional culture elsewhere.

It offers the visitor a unique experience. There are no special visitor arrangements – except for a special grandstand to accommodate visiting dignitaries – but simply turn up at Ludzidizini and follow the crowds (Day 7 is the main day).

Police will direct you where to go, and where to park.

The event takes place around the last week of August / first week of September in the Lobamba area, next to the Ezulwini Valley. The dates for the event are released relatively close to the time as they derive from ancestral astrology.

The dates for the 2018 Reed Dance have now been officially announced. The main day is always a Monday, which becomes a public holiday. This year, main day will fall on Monday 3rd September.

Tourists visiting the annual Reed Dance are allowed to take photographs on Days 6 and 7 (main day) – as the maidens walk to deliver the reeds to the Royal Residence, and then as they dance in the main arena.

Photography at other times is restricted to accredited members of the media, who can check the Media Accreditation section on this page for further information.

Reed Dance Schedule

Day One

- The girls gather at the Queen Mother’s royal village. Today this is at Ludzidzini, in Sobhuza’s time it was at Lobamba.

- They come in groups from the 200 or so chiefdoms and are registered for security.

- Men, usually four, supervise them, appointed chiefs. They sleep in the huts of relatives in the village or in classrooms of nearby schools.

- This is a very exciting time for the maidens.

Day Two

- The girls are separated into two groups, the older (about 14 to 22 years) and the younger (about 8 to 13 years).

- In the afternoon, they march to the reed-beds with their supervisors. The older girls often march about 30 kilometers, while the younger girls march about ten kilometers.

- If the older girls are sent further, government will provide trucks for their transport.

Day Three

- The girls cut their reeds, usually about ten to twenty, using long knives.

- Each girl ties her reeds into a bundle.

- Nowadays they use strips of plastic for the tying, but those mindful of tradition will still cut grass and plaint it into rope.

Day Four

- In the afternoon, the girls set off to return to the Queen Mother’s village, carrying their bundles of reeds. Again they return at night. This is done to show they traveled a long way.

Day Five

- A day of rest where the girls make final preparations to their hair and dancing costumes.

- After all that walking, who doesn’t deserve a little pampering?

Day Six

- First day of dancing, from about three to five in the afternoon.

- The girls drop their reeds outside the Queen Mother’s quarters.

- They move to the arena and dance, keeping their groups and each group singing different songs at the same time.

Day Seven

- Second and last day of dancing. His Majesty the King will be present.

Day Eight

- King commands that a number of cattle perhaps 20 -25 be slaughtered for the girls.

- They receive pieces of meat and go home.


Tourism Observer

SWAZILAND: Culture Of Swaziland

Swazi culture is the way of life and customs of the Swazi people through various historical stages.

The culture of Swazi people involves music, food, religion, architecture, kinship among many other things. The Swazi people are composed of various Nguni clans who speak the Nguni language SiSwati.

These people mostly reside in Swaziland and South Africa. Presently, Swazi people may also include citizens of Swaziland.

In Swaziland, one of the most visible features of cultural identity is the traditional political structure of the nation and the home.

In the national level, the Ngwenyama or the Lion, or King is considered the head of the nation alongside the Ndlovukati the She Elephant, or Queen Mother who is the spiritual leader of the nation.

National cultural events often involve the Ngwenyama or Ndlovukati. At home, the patriarch of the family is the head and in the past, often practiced polygamy.

This headman, usually referred to as umnumzane is central to all activities of the home. A group of homes forming a community and the land they reside on forms a chiefdom or umphakatsi.

Several chiefdoms form an inkhundla which then belongs of a regional division of the country. This connects the older traditional leadership structures to more modern forms of government.

There are national cultural events such as umhlanga, emaganu and incwala which take place at Royal residences of the Ngwenyama and Ndlovukati.

Local cultural events in communities or imiphakatsi, take place at the residence of the chief also called emphakatsini.

Weddings, funerals and religious events are usually carried out at family homesteads where neighbors are usually invited to partake.

The principal Swazi social unit is the homestead, a traditional beehive hut thatched with dry grass.

In a polygamous homestead, each wife has her own hut and yard surrounded by reed fences. There are three structures for sleeping, cooking, and storage also brewing beer.

In larger homesteads there are also structures used as bachelors' quarters and guest accommodation.

Central to the traditional homestead is the cattle byre, or kraal, a circular area enclosed by large logs inter-spaced with branches.

The cattle byre has ritual as well as practical significance as a store of wealth and symbol of prestige. It contains sealed grain pits.

Facing the cattle byre is the great hut which is occupied by the mother of the headman.

The headman is central to all homestead affairs and he is often polygamous. He leads through example and advises his wives on all social affairs of the home as well as seeing to the larger survival of the family.

He also spends time socialising with the young boys, who are often his sons or close relatives, advising them on the expectations of growing up and manhood.

The Sangoma is a traditional diviner chosen by the ancestors of that particular family. The training of the Sangoma is called kwetfwasa.

At the end of the training, a graduation ceremony takes place where all the local sangoma come together for feasting and dancing.

The diviner is consulted for various reasons, such the cause of sickness or even death. His diagnosis is based on kubhula, a process of communication, through trance, with the natural super-powers.

The Inyanga a medical and pharmaceutical specialist in western terms possesses the bone throwing skill kushaya ematsambo used to determine the cause of the sickness.

The most important cultural event in Swaziland is the Incwala ceremony.

It is held on the fourth day after the full moon nearest the longest day, 21 December. Incwala is often translated in English as first fruits ceremony, but the King's tasting of the new harvest is only one aspect among many in this long pageant.

Incwala is best translated as Kingship Ceremony : when there is no king, there is no Incwala. It is high treason for any other person to hold an Incwala.

Every Swazi may take part in the public parts of the Incwala. The climax of the event is the fourth day of the Big Incwala.

The key figures are the King, Queen Mother, royal wives and children, the royal governors or indunas, the chiefs, the regiments, and the bemanti or water people.

Swaziland's best-known cultural event is the annual Umhlanga Reed Dance.

In the eight-day ceremony, girls cut reeds and present them to the queen mother and then dance. There is no formal competition.

It is done in late August or early September. Only childless, unmarried girls can take part.

The aims of the ceremony are to preserve girls' chastity, provide tribute labour for the Queen mother, and to encourage solidarity by working together.

The royal family appoints a commoner maiden to be induna or captain of the girls and she announces over the radio the dates of the ceremony.

She will be an expert dancer and knowledgeable on royal protocol. One of the King's daughters will be her counterpart.

The Reed Dance today is not an ancient ceremony but a development of the old umchwasho custom. In umchwasho, all young girls were placed in a female age regiment.

If any girl became pregnant outside of marriage, her family paid a fine of one cow to the local chief.

After a number of years, when the girls had reached a marriageable age, they would perform labour service for the Queen Mother, ending with dancing and feasting.

The country was under the chastity rite of umchwasho until 19 August 2005.

Swazi art varies from pottery to jewellery among many other things. Historically Swazi people have made jewellery and clothing items from beads.

An example of this is ligcebesha, a colourful necklace and indlamu and colourful skirt for girls.

Historical pottery in Swaziland includes mostly clay pots that are used for carrying water, beer cooking and decorations.

These clay pots are called tindziwo. Wooden sculptures were also very popular as utensils, for example umcwembe used for serving meat.

Swazis also made a lot of items using special grasses. These include grass mats called emacansi and tihlantsi. Other grass items are brooms, baskets among others.

Swaziland is also known for a strong presence in the handcrafts industry. The formalised handcraft businesses of Swaziland employ over 2,500 people, many of whom are women.

The products are unique and reflect the culture of Swaziland, ranging from housewares, to artistic decorations, to complex glass, stone, or wood artwork.

The music of Swaziland is composed of both ethnic Swazi music and varieties of folk music as well as modern genres such as rock, pop and hip hop, which has been popular in Swaziland since the 1990s, headed by bands such as Vamoose.

The popularity of hip hop in South Africa, which shares a border with Swaziland, has also helped popularize it.

Two major festivals in Swaziland are Incwala and Umhlanga. The former takes place in December while the latter takes place in August.

Umhlanga is known for its dance, performed exclusively by women, and its 5-day ceremony, which involves reed-cutting. Traditional instruments used include: the kudu horn, calabash, rattles, makeyana and reed flute.

Christianity is the dominant religion in Swaziland. The relative prevalence percentage vary by source.

According to Pew Research, over 88% of the total 1.2 million population of Swaziland express Christianity to be their faith, over 10% express no affiliation.

According to the US State Department religious freedom report of 2012, local religious leaders estimate that 90% of Swaziland's population is Christian, 0.2% is Muslim, while under 10% belong to other religious groups.

According to the CIA world fact book, the distribution is 40% Zionist, 20% Roman Catholic, Muslim 0.2%, other includes Anglican, Baha'i, Methodist, Mormon, Jewish 30%.

In other sources such as Clay Pots, the religious demographics are 80% Christian, and 20% Traditional Swazi religion.

Anglican, Protestant and indigenous African churches including African Zionist, and Roman Catholics constitute the majority of the Christians in the country.

On 18 July 2012, Ellinah Wamukoya was elected Anglican Bishop of Swaziland; on 17 November 2012 she became the first woman to be consecrated as a bishop in Africa.

The Constitution of the Kingdom, which went into effect on February 8, 2006, provides for freedom of religion.

The Government respects freedom of religion. There have been reports, as of societal discrimination based on religious affiliation, belief, or practice.

The king of Swaziland, Mswati II invited Methodist Christian missionaries to his kingdom in 1825.

The first church to be established in the country was the Methodist Wesleyan Mission was established in Mahamba in 1844.

The Christian missions largely failed through 1881, and had few conversions to their credit. A larger presence of missionaries began in 1881 when members of the United Society arrived to establish the presence of the Church of England.

Lutherans arrived in 1887 from Germany, and Methodists restarted their efforts in 1895 out of their Christian missions in South Africa.

A Gothic-style church, which was built in 1912, still stands in Mahamba, and is the oldest existing place of worship in the country.

A large Roman Catholic presence, including churches, schools, and other infrastructure, exists in the country.

The country forms a single diocese, the Diocese of Manzini. The Zionist Churches, which blend Christianity and indigenous ancestral worship, and were developed in the early part of the 19th century, predominate in rural areas.

Christian holidays such as Good Friday, Christmas, Ascension Day are part of the national holiday calendar.

The Christianity followed by Swazi people incorporates rituals, singing, dancing and iconography of the traditional Swazi religion.

According to Sibongile Nxumalo, the Christian missionaries that ignored or misconstrued the positive aspects of traditional beliefs, customs and institutions of Swazi society have largely been unsuccessful.

More successful missions have adopted a syncretic approach.

The Christian organizations of Swaziland have been closely involved in the politics of the country.

The colonial era Swaziland League of African Churches has had a long relationship with the royalty of Swaziland, and held public ceremonies such as Easter on the behalf of the King.

The Zionist churches celebrate the Good Friday over three days with singing and dancing.

The Swaziland Conference of Churches have historically attempted to be apolitical, but in 2004 they campaigned to make Christianity the state religion through a constitutional amendment, a move opposed by the King.

The third politically influential Christian organization in Swaziland has been the Council of Swaziland Churches.

Established in 1976 as refugees flooded into Swaziland, and this group voiced views on Apartheid in South Africa and the ongoing civil war in nearby Mozambique.

Their views contradicted the state's position, and the leaders of this new Council were then threatened with arrests and prison terms.

The traditional Swazi religion recognizes a supreme God and creator, but more important are the spirits of ancestors.

Swazi religion speaks of a creator known as Mvelincanti, he who was there from the beginning.

Mvelincanti is too remote and so it is ancestral spirits emadloti is more relevant in day-to-day life.

Beasts are slaughtered and beer was brewed to please or placate the spirits, and ask for help.

The rituals are performed at the level of family associated with birth, death and marriage.

Some Swazis blend these traditions with contemporary Christian practices.

In the hierarchy of Swazi society, the king assumes the leadership position.

The incwala ritual, which is performed annually, is considered a national religious event.

The objectives of the event are to reflect the growth of the king, and to thank the ancestors for good harvests and to pray for good rain in the coming year.

This event, which only takes place when there is a king, is the most sacred national event and all male Swazis are participant.

The holiday for incwala depends on the phases of the moon, and is at the end of the six-week event.

Followers of Islam, the Baha'i Faith, Hinduism and Judaism are largely immigrants located in urban areas.

According to the US State department, Islam forms about 2% of the population, while 2% of the population is Muslim according to the CIA Fact book, and the Official Government state it is less than 0.2%.

The Muslims in Swaziland are indentured workers who arrived from South Asia during the colonial era.



Tourism Observer

SWAZILAND: Good Reasons To Visit Swaziland

2018 is an exciting year for Swaziland, dubbed 'Africa in a nutshell' as it celebrates its 50th year since independence and King Mswati III's 50th birthday.

The '50/50' celebrations in April will be the undoubted highlight of the year but the country's stunning scenery; fascinating cultural experiences, thrilling safaris and exciting adventure activities are available all year round.

As 2018 is such a significant year for this charming Kingdom, over the coming months we’re going to deliver 50 reasons why Swaziland should be at the very top of your travel bucket list.

The month of April in particular brings a number of reasons to visit into sharp focus, so we’re starting with 5 reasons to go right now.

1. Swaziland celebrates its 50/50 in April – 50 years since Independence and 50th birthday of King Mswati III.

In true Swazi style, the celebrations on 19 April will be spectacular, attended by numerous neighbouring African heads of state, but also open to visitors.

2. The new Hilton Hotel opens in Mbabane in April. A newly-built luxury hotel and the first big international chain hotel ever in Swaziland, this is a very significant step in Swaziland’s tourism development

3. Although April is classed as a tourist low season, the weather is perfect with temperatures between 16-25C - ideal for exploring.

4. A number of tour operators launched new Swaziland trips at the start of the year that are now up and running, including a 5-day Overnight Trail on horse back with In the Saddle.

5. It’s Marula Season. Between February and mid-May Swaziland celebrates the harvest of the Marula fruit. Lots of festivities and lots of Marula beer being brewed.

Attractions

It is Swaziland’s variety of attractions in its small area that is its greatest asset.

It is the mixture of beautiful landscapes, fascinating wildlife, and rich culture that combine to make this small country such a wonderful place to visit.

Culture/People

A tiny country with a big heart and warm, friendly people aptly describes Swaziland – a country that is one of the few remaining Executive Monarchies in Africa and embraces and upholds its own unique and ancient traditions.

Both the monarchy and the people of Swaziland actively maintain and preserve a remarkable cultural heritage that is probably unmatched anywhere in Africa.

Visitors can get a better idea of traditional African culture here than pretty much anywhere else in the region.

What is seen, including spectacular festivals and energetic dances, has not simply been resuscitated for the tourist dollar but is the real deal.

The famous Umhlanga or Reed Dance and Incwala are traditional ceremonies that involve tens of thousand of Swazis, and attract visitors from all over the world.

But traditional attire, ceremonies and dancing are to be found throughout the country at all times of the year.

Wildlife

Swaziland's rich variety of landscapes and habitats gives it a profusion of fauna and flora, with the sheer number of species being mind-boggling by most European standards.

The country is not large enough to offer lots of big game experiences, but it has some 17 protected areas which are home to a very wide range of species, including the sought after Big 5.

As well as being one of the best places on the continent for rhino safaris on foot as well as by 4x4 and to see both black and white rhinos.

Swaziland is also the perfect place to get to grips with many smaller creatures often overlooked on safari elsewhere, and it is a bird-watcher’s paradise.

Landscape/Scenic

With the exception of desert and sea, every geographical feature of Africa’s terrain is found within Swaziland.

Magnificent mountain scenery with rivers, waterfalls and gorges; unique rock formations which are among the world’s most ancient; lush and fertile valleys, plus typical African bush.

From west to east, Swaziland moves from mountainous Highveld, though Middleveld to Lowveld, and then rises again to the Lubombo mountains.

Altitudes vary from 21 to 1800 m (70 to 6000 ft) – yet the country’s east and west borders are less than 200 km (125 miles) apart.

Arts & Crafts

Swaziland has a remarkably impressive range of traditional arts and crafts with many of its products now found in trendy ethnic boutiques around world.

Throughout the country men and women are at work creating the finest handicrafts that are so popular with visitors.

Creative basket ware in vibrant clours, wood and stone carvings, glassware, exquisite candles, batik items, jewellery – all uniquely Swazi.

In many places that they are on sale, there is also chance to see the craftspeople at work and marvel at their intricate skills.

Many are socially responsible outlets which provide both income and empowerment for their craftspeople from poor rural communities.

Activities

Swaziland’s mountains, valleys, rivers and other natural wonders make it the ideal choice for those seeking adventure, and even high adrenaline experiences.

In addition, the rich culture allows for less adrenaline-fueled activities.

All activities in Swaziland are available year-round, but for some suggestions of what to try when, have a look at our Swaziland Calendar, and don't forget all the Events that go in in Swaziland each year.

Cultural Activities

With Swaziland’s rich culture and strong traditions, this is a wonderful country to partake in some fascinating cultural activities.

The monarchy and the people of Swaziland actively maintain and preserve a remarkable cultural heritage, allowing visitors to get a better idea of traditional African culture here than pretty much anywhere else in the region.

What is seen, including spectacular festivals, has not simply been resuscitated for the tourist dollar but is the real deal.

Events

If there is one thing that Swaziland is known for around the world it is the magnificent traditional festivals that the country hosts- particularly the Umhlanga (Reed Dance) and Incwala ceremonies.

Both are living cultural events that, bar the odd wristwatch and mobile phone, have hardly changed in two hundred years.

Visitors are allowed to watch, but neither ceremony makes any concession to tourism; even the precise dates are not published in advance, being dependent on the vagaries of ancestral astrology.

The main events happen at the royal parade grounds at Ludzidzini but the mood of celebration sweeps the nation.

Visitors to the country around the time of the events will doubtless see wandering bands of warriors or maidens decked out in full regalia as they head to or from the festivities.

The modern event that has gained an international reputation in far fewer years is the Bushfire Festival – a performing arts festival held every May.

Swaziland’s annual calendar is a mix of traditional and modern events

Safaris

The many Game Parks and Nature Reserves across Swaziland protect a vast variety of animals. From the magnificent Big Five to warthogs, antelope and reptiles, Swaziland is home to numerous of Africa’s wild animal species.

The emphasis in Swaziland is to provide visitors with a more intimate wildlife experience in areas of natural beauty, and to allow them a certain amount of freedom to explore on their own terms.

This is no place for mass tourism and convoys of vehicles but instead, walks to learn about the bush and track rare species like black and white rhino.

As well as traditional 4x4 and walking safaris, some of Swaziland’s reserves can also be explored by mountain bike and on horseback.

In a number of the reserves visitors are free to move around independently, without the need for a guide or ranger.

There are even self catering options amongst the accommodation that allow you to be in charge of your own safari lodge in the bush.

There aren’t many places in the world where you can head off for your own bike ride and encounter zebra and bushbuck along the way, or take a stroll to see the giraffe before settling down to your own bush barbeque.

Birdwatching

Some 500 species of bird have been recorded in Swaziland. This puts it roughly on a par with France (517) or, more locally, the Kruger National Park (505), and is a remarkable tally for such a tiny, landlocked country.

This comes from its diversity of habitats, with several very different bird communities occurring side-by-side.

Outdoor Activities

With the massive variety of Swaziland’s natural landscapes, it’s no surprise that there is a wealth of outdoor activities available in this small, beautiful country.

The scenery can be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback and even by quad bike. And there are a even a few rivers and dams/reservoirs allowing for boat trips.

Adventure Activities

Swaziland’s mountains, valleys, rivers and other natural wonders make it the ideal choice for those seeking adrenaline activities.

It has built reputation for a variety of thrilling adventure activities that once again belies its small size. These include Caving, Canopy Tours, Climbing, Abseiling, Tubing and White Water Rafting.

Sports

There is no shortage of ways to keep fit and active in Swaziland. As well as the Outdoor Activities and Adventure Activities covered elsewhere, there are a number of sports on offer, including Fishing, Swimming, Golf, Tennis, Squash.

Gyms, spas, yoga and team building are also covered here. The best places to find most sporting facilities are Swaziland’s various Country and Golf Clubs – legacies of the country’s colonial past.

Water Sports

As a land-locked country, Swaziland has no coastline that would allow for the variety of beach activities and watersports found in neighbouring South Africa and Mozambique.

It does have a number of dams/reservoirs, and some magnificent rivers, that provide the opportunity for a few water-based activities, but these are covered elsewhere.

- Boat Trips can be found under Outdoor Activities

- Swimming and Fishing can be found under Sports

- White Water Rafting can be found under Adventure Activities

Shopping
In today's retail society, shopping is an ever more popular activity. Swaziland has a handful of modern malls, but the country's best shopping experiences come from the traditional handicrafts on offer.

Swaziland has a remarkably impressive range of traditional arts and crafts with many of its products now found in trendy ethnic boutiques around world.

Throughout the country men and women are at work creating and selling the finest handicrafts that are so popular with visitors.


Tourism Observer

SWAZILAND: Zulu- and Swaziland cultural tourism

In Zululand and Swaziland, original African culture is still deeply rooted.
A visit to Southern Africa, and in particular South Africa, can often be misleading for the true spirit of Africa. Indeed, many South Africans themselves say they are "going to Africa" only when leaving the country.

This is not an attempt to belittle the fantastic travel destination of South Africa, indeed one of the most exiting in the world, but it is a reference to the country's and region's high level of globalisation. No other African country is as industrialised as South Africa and as influenced by European and US culture, ranging from the contemporary cuisine to political structure.

Cape Town, the Drakensberg Mountains, Johannesburg and the Krueger Park are all world famous destinations with their own flair. But they can hardly be called "secret" destinations. Also, they are not very representative of what is mostly considered distinctive about Africa.

But you can still encounter age-old African culture that is alive and kicking in the region. In particular two of the many peoples in Southern Africa have been very conscious of preserving their cultural expressions and structures: the Zulu and the neighbouring Swazi.

In particular the Zulu, mostly living in South Africa's south-eastern KwaZulu-Natal province north of the city of Durban, have a proud military history of regional conquest and resistance to the English and Boer colonialists.

The Zulu national feeling is strong, directed towards their inkosi traditional leaders or king. In an otherwise heavily urbanised South Africa, where traditional leaders have lost most of their importance, only emigrated Zulu can afford to break away from loyalty to their leaders. Their political influence is however slowly diminishing also in KwaZulu-Natal.

But the cultural expressions distinctive to the Zulu nation are not on the retreat. Music, dances and traditional attire form part of the many festivals and ceremonies. But also daily life is shaped by traditions, including the social structure of an umuzi compound or village, food and drinks, traditional religion and witchcraft and the prevailing importance of cattle.

For the traveller, a visit to an umuzi in the softly hilled green Zululand landscape gives the best introduction to this rich culture. Of course, the best way is to be invited to somebody's home. But there are also guided cultural tours to Zulu villages and even guest houses and lodges built according to the umuzi structure, which mostly communicate the Zulu feeling well.

But of course you also should seek to experience a traditional Zulu dance and music event. And there are many returning events that call for dancing, either by young Zulu men and women together, or by only one of the sexes. You may be taken to a village where dancing ceremonies are being prepared, or you will be able to experience this forceful expression at your hotel or lodge.

And if you "only" get to see a Zulu dance performance at your lodge, be sure it is a genuine and exclusive experience. Because, contrary to so many other cultures where dancers gathered together for the tourist show examples of dying or dead cultures, here in Zululand this culture is alive and the same dancers also participate at real ceremonies.

No cultural trip is complete without some good shopping, and the Zulus are indeed great craftsmen. Also Zulu crafts are genuine and alive cultural expressions, the products being actively used among locals. Among the good buys are colourful beadworks, hand carved masks, shields, skins, drums, baskets, pottery, furniture and so on. Prices are reasonable, quality normally very good and the flair is arch-African.

Driving through the Valley of a Thousand Hills, the majestic Zulu heartland, you will see scattered umuzis with traditional huts, the occasional wildlife, some of the best birdlife in Southern Africa and an explosion of green. Several museums and historic sites are worthwhile, including the reconstructed royal enclosure of ancient Zulu king Cetshwayo, the Vukani Collection Museum and Shakaland.

Turning to more classical holiday tasks, KwaZulu-Natal can also offer some of the best beaches in South Africa, the astonishing UNESCO World Heritage site Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park, the eastern part of the Drakensberg Mountains, several safari-friendly game reserves and the beautiful and vibrant city of Durban.

Swaziland
Moving on, even further from the beaten track, our tour of cultural highlights in the region takes us to Swaziland, an independent landlocked kingdom bordering KwaZulu-Natal and Mozambique. Swaziland has not the same proud warrior history as Zululand, but modern developments - or rather resistance to modernity - have made it equally preservative of its culture.

The Swazis are related to the Zulus, both in language and in culture, and most Swazi cultural expressions are varieties of those found in Zululand. Again, loyalty to the almighty King and his local chiefs is a key cultural expression. Traditionally built compounds with strict social structures, ancestral cults, witchcraft, cattle and traditional songs and dances form part of this.

In a Swazi village, the chief has an even stronger position, and it can be a good idea to be presented to him when visiting. Being lucky, you will get a good introduction to Swazi rural life, society and traditions.

But you can also visit the Cultural Village in Mantenga Nature Reserve, which is a living museum of Swazi culture where you will be able to participate in classical Swazi lifestyle. The Cultural Village also has daily performances of Swaziland's exclusive dance traditions, which are a colourful and spectacular manifestation of Swazis' loyalty to the King.

If you are visiting Swaziland in late August-September or December, you will be able to enjoy the country's two most important cultural events live. Then, respectively the Umhlanga and Incwala ceremonies are held, which many hold as even more exciting than the Zulu festivals.

The Umhlanga or Reed Dance shows off Swaziland's unmarried girls, while at the Incwala, the King participates in the dances of mostly young men at the Royal Kraal at Ludzidzini. The Incwala is celebrated with forceful dancing for several weeks and is the country's most important ceremony.

Also the Swazis pride themselves of a very rich and alive craftsmanship culture, most of the products being made for the home market. Here, you can indeed make good buys, including beautiful wood carvings, grass weavings, stone carvings, pottery, batiks and clothing.

There is however a dark side to Swaziland's rich and somewhat retrospective culture. It is actively used to maintain and strengthen the totalitarian King's total control of the oppressed population. Any efforts to establish a democratic opposition or modern trade unions are violently oppressed. This also means you should do some research about the current political situation in Swaziland before you go, because at some point, the growing public anger will explode.

But for now, Swaziland is a safe and secret travel destination providing you with authentic cultural adventures. Mbabane, the capital of the small kingdom, provides some fairly good hotels, but has very few sights worth mentioning. It is more rewarding to check into rural lodges around the country, which are better in communicating the peculiarities of Swazi culture and lifestyle. A drive into the scenic and green north the country is also rewarding.

Travelling through Zululand and Swaziland to experience the region's rich culture, the best way would be to rent a car in South Africa, as most destinations are rural and take a lot of time to reach by public transport.

Reaching the region, your best option is a flight to Durban international airport, which however has few intercontinental connections. The cheapest connection from Europe and America mostly is a flight to Johannesburg, where you can rent a car, find a bus or get a connection flight to Durban. Enjoy!