GABON: Understanding Gabon

Unlike many of its neighbours, this slab of equatorial Africa enjoys both peace and stability, while its superb wildlife makes it an increasingly popular place to safari away from the crowds of East Africa. With its seemingly endless rainforest now safeguarded by the 2003 decision to turn an incredible 10% of the country into protected national parkland, Gabon is Central Africa's most progressive and traveller-friendly destination, although the competition is admittedly not too fierce.

Despite being far ahead of many of its unstable, war-torn neighbours, tourism in Gabon remains extremely DIY – you'll either have to put yourself into the hands of a travel agency, or negotiate the poor roads, infrequent transport options and the almost total lack of reliable infrastructure yourself. Outside the cosmopolitan metropolis of Libreville, the country's only real city, Gabon is an undiscovered wonderland of thick jungle, white-sand beaches, rushing rivers and ethereal landscapes. Bring either plenty of money or plenty of patience, but definitely don't miss out on this Eden-like travel experience.

Libreville
The muscular heart of Gabon, Libreville is Gabon's only real city and home to over a third of its population. It's also a city awash in oil money and almost totally unrecognisable as an African capital to anyone who's been travelling elsewhere in the region. Pavements, clean streets, smart restaurants and vast gated villas are the first impressions of the town, but stay a little longer and you'll easily discover Libreville's vibrant African heart beating away in the crowded street markets and busy residential ares further back from the gleaming coastline. Any visitor to Gabon will pass through Libreville, but be aware, this is one of Africa's most expensive cities and will drain your wallet almost as quickly as being on safari.

Southern Gabon
Southern Gabon covers the lower half of the country, from the Ogooué River, south to the Republic of Congo border. Be sure to visit the riverside town Lambaréné, where the hospital set up by the great German humanitarian Albert Schweitzer, is still operational. The coastal Loango National Park is the area’s biggest drawcard. Home to the 'surfing hippos', it also offers the chance to see elephants getting sand between their toes. The waters off the coast in this area are a great spot to see humpback and killer whales.

Lambarene
'Everyone has his Lambaréné', Nobel winner Albert Schweitzer said. This, then, is his, with its glossy lakes, fast-flowing rivers, thick green foliage and ingrained sweetness. The town is somehow kinder and gentler than the rest of Gabon, as if the profound humanitarian efforts of Schweitzer ('the greatest man in the world' said Life magazine in 1947) changed the character of the land. And his legacy is indeed felt everywhere, from the wonderful, still-operational hospital (which Schweitzer founded in 1924 to treat people with leprosy) to the volunteer-staffed lab that researches malaria and other tropical diseases. At the hospital museum, housed in the former hospital building (it moved to the new, current premises in 1981) you can see photos, paintings and the impeccably arranged house and artefacts of Schweitzer and his wife on a guided tour. There's also a small zoo, the animals of which include descendents of Schweitzer's beloved pelican Parzival. You're also able to see the graves of Schweitzer, his wife and colleagues.

The town is divided into three areas spanning the river, quite close to each other. The near bank has the Schweitzer hospital grounds; across the bridge is the island with the main markets, the river port, and Le Tribune, from where shared taxis leave; across another bridge is the Quartier Isaac, where you'll find nightlife, restaurants and most hotels. Short taxi rides around town vary from CFA300 to CFA800 depending on how many bridge crossings you make.

Explore the many lakes by pirogue, arranged at the port in town, through the Ogooué Palace hotel. A long boat trip will cost around CFA40,000 but can be split with many people.

Musée des Arts et Traditions
The Musée des Arts et Traditions has exhibitions on tribal crafts and culture, and a great collection of masks.