LESOTHO: Welcoming, Very safe, Peaceful Country

Lesotho is a country in Southern Africa. Known as the Kingdom in the Sky because of its lofty altitude — it has the highest lowest point of any country in the world (1400m) and is the only country to be entirely above 1000m! Lesotho is totally surrounded by South Africa and is a fantastic adventure holiday destination.

Originally, the Sotho-Tswana people lived in what is now Free State in neighbouring South Africa. They were a farming people, and when the Zulus started attacking villages and the Voortrekkers started encroaching on their land, they fled up into the Lesotho mountains. Here, continuous attacks from the Zulus forced local tribes to join together for protection, and by 1824, King Moeshoeshoe had established himself as king and Thaba Bosiu as his mountain fortress.

Moeshoeshoe allied himself with the British Cape Colony government in a bid to protect the Basotho from the Boers' rapidly increasing presence in the area. Much fighting followed, forcing Moeshoeshoe to go straight to the imperial government of the British, and in 1868, Basotholand as it was then called became a protectorate of the British Empire. It was granted independence from the British Empire on October 4th, 1966.

The Kingdom of Lesotho was formed through the pursuit of peace, and this peaceful nature still exists in the Basotho. They are a friendly and welcoming people and do not have the aggressive history some of the peoples of neighbouring countries have. People are especially grateful to Brits, and the older generation will come up to a Brit and tell them how much they thank them for saving them from apartheid!

Lesotho has 300 days of sunshine. The rainy season extends from October to April in which Lesotho gets 70mm of rainfall, mostly during severe thunderstorms. Extensive snow falls are possible in winter but may occur in any month on the high mountains. Night time temperatures go below freezing in winter (May — September)- and houses do not feature central heating, so bring a jacket.

Places To Visit
- Maliba Lodge — The only 5 Star Lodge in Lesotho
- Afriski — Ski and Mountain Resort for Skiing in Winter (June - September) and Mountain Adventure Sport in Summer (October - April)
- Bokong Nature Reserve — hiking paradise; the Lepaquoa waterfall freezes in winter into a solid column of ice!
- Sehlabathebe National Park — remote mountain reserve great for hiking with rare wildlife, impressive waterfalls, and ancient rock paintings and stone shelters.
- Ts'ehlanyane National Park — Sub-alpine National Park at the foot of the Holomo Pass. Home to one of the few remaining Che-Che (old wood) forests, with hiking trails and pristine rock pools and rivers.
- Katse — Pony-trekking and the impressive Katse Dam.
- Malealea — Pony-trekking
- Morija — Museum, dinosaur footprints
- Oxbow — One of the handful of places in Africa to go skiing!
- Roof of Africa route — Running between Oxbow & the S.African border, this narrow, winding road runs through some of the highest passes in Africa.
- Semonkong — Maletsunyane Falls.
- Thaba Bosiu — The mountain stronghold where King Moeshoeshoe the Great established the Kingdom of Lesotho.

Entry
Foreign nationals of the following countries/territories can enter Lesotho visa-free:
For up to 90 days: Antigua and Barbuda, Bahamas, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Brunei, Cameroon, Dominica, Fiji Gambia, Grenada, Guyana, Hong Kong SAR, Ireland, Israel, Jamaica, Japan, Kenya, Kiribati, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Mauritius, Monaco, Namibia, Nauru, North Korea, Papua New Guinea, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, Uganda, United Kingdom, United States, Vanuatu, Zambia and Zimbabwe

For up to 14 days: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland

Your passport needs to be valid for another six months and you need at least two blank pages. The proof of a return or onward ticket or your future travel plans might be asked, but this should not be a problem.

If you require a visa to enter Lesotho, you might be able to apply for one at a British embassy, high commission or consulate in the country where you legally reside if there is no foreign mission of Lesotho. For example, the British embassies/consulates in Al Khobar, Almaty, Belgrade, Budapest, Damascus, Geneva, Guatemala City, Jeddah, Prague, Pristina, Riyadh, Rome, Sofia, Vienna and Zurich accept Lesotho visa applications (this list is not exhaustive). British diplomatic posts charge £50 to process a Lesotho visa application and an extra £70 if the authorities in Lesotho require the visa application to be referred to them. The authorities in Lesotho can also decide to charge an additional fee if they correspond with you directly.

Moshoeshoe Airport is located 18km from Maseru. South African Airways and Airlink operate daily flights between Maseru and Johannesburg, typically costing around ZAR1400. Luggage is lost very regularly and there is no lost luggage reporting system. You should arrange taxi pick-up in advance as often there are no taxis at the airport. Taxis charge around LSL50-80.

There is no train line within Lesotho, but the South African railway line Bloemfontein Bohlokong (freight only) runs along the northwestern Lesotho border, with a stop in Meqheleng.

You will be coming from South Africa when entering by car. The major border posts are Caledonspoort, Ficksburg Bridge, Makhaleng Bridge, Maseru Bridge, Ngoangoma Gate, Peka Bridge, Qacha's Nek, Ramatseliso's Gate, Sani Pass, Sephaphos Gate, Tele Bridge and Van Rooyen's Gate. Please note that some of the border posts can only be accessed by four-wheel driven cars, and only Maseru Bridge and Ficksburg Bridge are open 24 hours; other borders can close as early as 4PM. Be aware of the fact that routine searches of vehicles at customs checkpoints do take place and that multiple bags in the trunk do cause the officials' suspicion. Usually, such searches do result in nothing but a sometimes significant delay.

The main roads in Lesotho are similar to minor roads in Europe — they are sealed, and surprisingly free of potholes. The A1 road (aka 'Main North') is tarred from Maseru to Mokhotlong, and the A2 (aka 'Main South') is tarred from Maseru to Qacha's Nek. The roads to Roma, Mohale Dam and Katse Dam are also tarred. For the visitor, the only unsealed roads you are likely to use are the road to Semonkong (4x4 only most of the year although some drive in 2x4 hire cars) and the last 20km to Malealea, which is easy in a saloon. Note that the road running east-west to Thaba Tseka is unsealed and in terrible condition; it is always quicker to take the A1 to get to Katse, Thaba Tseka and Sani Pass.

If setting off in to the mountains, check your car over before the trip (top up the oil, pump the spare tyre etc). There are some steep climbs which require 2nd or even 1st gear to get up — so don't attempt to drive to Qacha's Nek with 5 people squeezed into a hired 1.3 litre CitiGolf!

If in doubt, please ask locals if the road you are going to take is okay, especially during wintertime. The truth is that if you keep to the main roads you are likely to drive on a road smoother than Eastern Free State (RSA) roads. However the stretch from Oxbow to Mokhotlong is not tarred (regardless of some maps that claim it is) and very potholed.

When taking a rented car, be sure to get permission from the rental company to take the car into Lesotho. You will need to show written permission from the rental company at border control. Be clear with your rental agency about what's covered and what's not in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. Full coverage doesn't necessarily mean full coverage.

Finally, petrol can be a problem — it is best to fill the tank in Maseru or in South Africa. Outside Maseru, unleaded can be very hard to find, and even LRP and diesel can be in short supply.

Vaal-Maseru runs a coach service between Johannesburg and Maseru.

Minibuses run pretty much anywhere from the Maseru Bridge border, but you must get there early in the morning (07:00) as there may be only 1 bus a day.

If travelling in from Bloemfontein you could hitch-hike easily enough (look out for Lesotho number plates). If going from Maseru to Bloemfontein, hanging around the border (especially on a Saturday morning) should get you a lift.

Regular taxis (you phone, they pick you up) and 4+1s — have a yellow stripe down the side and squeeze in 4 passengers. Always check the cost of a taxi before you get in.

As with most of Africa the minibus 'taxi' (aka combi / Toyota Hiace) is the transport of the people.

Be sure you are clear on where the minibus is going (there should be a sign in the front windscreen), you'll be asked for money after a minute or two, with money being passed down the minibus. Try to get the front seat by the driver for more leg room. Prices are fixed by the government. There is a risk of overcharging foreigners — ask the other passengers if you are not sure of the price. Be warned, the reason the Minibus taxis are so cheap is because of the way they fit so many people in! Don't be surprised to see kids sitting on laps four or five high, or to be told to have large amounts of luggage on your lap or wedged in around you. The Minibus taxis tend to be poorly maintained and are not insured. However, very few accidents involving taxis occur.

Intercity travel by taxi will cost no more than LSL50 for a single way ticket, and inner city minibus taxi rides will cost you around LSL2.50 (4+1s will cost you LSL20 for the whole car, no matter how many are with you, provided its within a city.)

Always check the cost of a taxi before you get in.

Upon arrival in one of the main towns, you will notice that all the minibuses are hooting their horns, which is to signal that they have space for more passengers. To flag one down, just wave to a taxi as it approaches, the conductor (who will be leaning out of the window on the kerbside of the van) will usually be shouting the destination of the taxi. If you are not sure it will be going where you want to go, ask before you get on!

In Maseru, there is a place called Setopong on Moeshoeshoe Road, near to the Shoprite by The Circle / Cathedral. This is where all the minibus taxis leave from, and if you want a taxi out of town, you should head here. However, it is a very busy and bustling place, heaving with people. It is easiest to take a 4+1 taxi toward Setopong and ask the driver to drop you off near the taxis that travel to the part of the country you are headed.

It is also possible to hire a car and travel around. The Sun hotels in Maseru both have hire car places, as does the airport. If you hire your car in South Africa (probably cheaper than hiring in Lesotho) be sure to get permission to take the car across into Lesotho (the hire car insurance may not cover Lesotho).

However don't discount travel by public transport, for many it's a good way to get up close to the locals and chatting with them!

There is an ongoing road upgrading programme underway in Lesotho, and you don't need a 4x4 to see the main sights in Lesotho. The road is tarred to Mokhotlong (via Leribe) and is now tarred all the way to Qacha's Nek going south from Maseru. The road to Katse and the road to Thaba Tseka are tarred, and the road to Semonkong is (as of April 2014) tarred for all but the last 15km. In the towns some side roads are unsealed but you can bump along in a saloon easily enough — If heading off in to the mountains on unsealed roads (eg to the Kao diamond mine) then a 4x4 is a must. The same goes for going up or down the Sani pass.

Be aware that although many roads are now tarred, they are still steep and slow going. Keep this in mind if visiting in a small car with 3 or more passengers, it will be very slow going up some of the hills, in first gear a lot of the time.

When driving it's not advisable to stop at junctions or traffic lights at night if there is no traffic.

The official languages are Sesotho and English.

Most people in the larger towns or tourist attractions speak English to a reasonable standard and a few words of Afrikaans; however, outside these areas, these languages will not be understood.

Places To Visit
Kome Caves — impressive cave houses built by the basotho people to hide from the cannibals. Located an hour drive away from Maseru in the Berea district.
Semonkong Falls — these falls near Semonkong drop 200m in single plunge! In summer, you can swim in the pond below while in winter the pond freezes over and an ice enclosure develops around the falls.
Katse Dam — an impressive dam towering 185m in a narrow valley
Dinosaur footprints — well-preserved footprints of these terrible lizards exist around the country; the most accessible are near Moyeni & Morija
Rock art — found in many places throughout the country, the most impressive found within Liphofung Cave.

Activities
- Pony-Trekking especially at either Malealea, Semonkong, or at the Basotho Pony-Trekking Centre — whether you're a seasoned pro at horse riding or a complete novice, pony-trekking is an extremely enjoyable way to see the Lesotho countryside! These organized tours give you access to parts of the country which you wouldn't see from your car. The exceptionally sure-footed Basotho Pony can take you through far-off villages and atop daunting mountains.

- Hiking in the Highlands. Contact the Department of Tourism, who will find you a guide, and then fly into a completely cut off village and hike your way out, staying in remote villages over night. You can also purchase 1:25,000 topographical maps for about 25LSL from the office of Lands, Surveys, and Physical Planning in downtown Maseru and do this yourself (recommended only for experienced hikers).

- Skiing — hit the slopes at Oxbow during the winter!
GoVertical Mountaineering Adventures. Guided Trekking and Climbing in the Maluti/ Drakensberg mountains

Shopping
The official currency of Lesotho is the loti (LSL) (plural: maloti), which is subdivided into 100 lisente. Lesotho along with Namibia, South Africa and Swaziland is a member of the Southern African Common Monetary Area, and as such the loti is pegged 1:1 to the South African Rand (ZAR). Both the loti and rand are legal tender in Lesotho, though change will usually be given in loti.

There are ATMs at banks in most towns, although you will not find them elsewhere. Most banks will change travellers cheques for you, but it can be a very, very lengthy process if they are in any other currency apart from ZAR. Credit cards will be accepted in Shoprite and the main hotels, but not elsewhere. Your cashcard from home may work in some Maseru cash machines (FNB or Standard Bank), but it is best to get cash out in South Africa beforehand.

Restaurants outside of Maseru and in Maseru will probably not accept credit card as a means of payment.

There are several Western style supermarkets in Maseru, which are good for stocking up on supplies in before heading elsewhere in the country.

If you're after locally made goods and crafts, your best bet is to give Maseru a miss, and head to TY or Hlotse, where the markets are far better and cheaper. You can buy traditional Basotho hats, sticks, rugs and various other curios.

Wine And Dine
There are many Western style restaurants in Maseru. For a more traditional meal, why not befriend some locals and see what they cook you?! The local speciality is deep fried harajja with Golumbi paste - spicy but not ridiculous.

To praise the food offered by one's hosts is a very high compliment in Lesotho, particularly if such praise is accompanied by lip-smacking.

Accomodation
Lesotho hosts dozens of hotels, lodges and guesthouses. A full list can be found of the Lesotho Tourism Development Corporations . The list below are the most tourism oriented and are pleasant places to stay. Other accommodation tends to be more functional and are OK to rest overnight and have a simple meal, but are unlikely to offer good service, nor any recreational activities. It is advisable, if possible, to book in advance in order to arrange budget accommodations.

The cheapest option could be " Lesotho Work Camps Association "

22 Cathedral Area, Main North 1 (past traffic circle), turn right at first traffic light. (April 2014) - 24 bed Dorm LSL50 per person per night. They have only dorms. Male, female separated. If you pay for the annual membership costs LSL50, then you pay LSL30 per night. So if you plan to stay in Maseru for more than 3 nights, it will be cheaper to pay the membership. There is a small kitchen. Good location. 2min to the Cathedral, 3 min to the Chinese market, 5min to Shop Rite and Taxi Rand. Dorm rooms are clean enough for the price, but the shower room is really dirty. And there is only ONE shower for everybody! Though the dorms never get full. I can recommend only if you really need a cheap place to stay in Maseru.

Semonkong Lodge situated on the Maletsunyane river and just one hour's walk from Maletsunyane Falls, offers accommodations, good food, horse treks, abseiling at the Falls.

Malealea has a lodge and pony trekking centre which offers good accommodation, foot or horse treks and 4x4 excursions.

Oxbow (Lesotho) has the New Oxbow Lodge

Katse has the Orion Katse Lodge

Mohale has the Orion Mohale Lodge

Hotel Mount Maluti

Blue Mountain Inn

Mountain View Hotel

Safety
Lesotho is far safer than neighbouring South Africa. However, it is risky to walk in Maseru alone and you should check UK government travel advice since that government is one of the few with a substantial mission apart from South Africa.

As with pretty much everywhere else in the world, you may find friendly chats with locals turn in to veiled requests for money — stick to your principles and only give to registered charities.

At night time, it is the norm to drive through red lights — this is more just to speed up your journey,the police won't care, but also a precaution against carjackings.

Lesotho has a history as a very safe, peaceful and welcoming country.

Try and learn a few Sesotho words before travelling to Lesotho. The locals appreciate a foreigner who has made the effort to learn their language. Always refer to an elder person, or a person of higher social standing as N'tate (male) or M'e (female).

Lumela (pronounced due-mela) is hello. So you would say Lumela N'tate or Lumela M'e. Kea leboha (sounds like ke-la-bore) - is thank you U phela joang (O-pila-joan) - how are you Respond with either hantle (well) or Ke phila hantle (I am well) Sala hantle (as it is written) is "stay well" if they are staying and your are going. Equivalent to goodbye. Somaya hantle is "go well" if they are going and you are staying

Always respond to people, it is very offensive to ignore someone who greets you. As a foreigner, locals will be keen to say hello and ask you what you're up to in their country.

Never get angry at anyone; in the Basotho culture, people never show frustration towards others, and if you do, then you can easily offend someone. You will almost certainly get frustrated when dealing with Lesotho officialdom, always keep your cool no matter how much buffoonery you are subjected to. To show respect when giving and receiving items, use both hands. Also show a respect for food — don't throw it around, or eat whilst walking.