While this helped sway my decision of where to go for a long weekend getaway from NYC sampling the national dish of Green Fig & Salt Fish as humanly possible.
When you hear the words Green Fig and Salt Fish, you immediately picture salted local fish topped with sticky sweet figs.
In actuality, Saint Lucia locals refer to green bananas the island’s largest export as figs.
And they’re not sweet, but boiled with water and salt when green and unripe, either peeled or with the skin on.
Green figs are for Saint Lucia what potatoes are in North America.
They’re an important part of the local diet, usually served as part of the main dish or in side dishes or salads.
Although, in the case of the Green Fig & Salt Fish it’s part of the main course, either served alongside the fish or mixed together with it, served warm.
The salt fish in the dish is traditionally salted cod, although today other varieties of fish might be used.
Boiled, flaked and sauteed with onions, local peppers, chives, thyme and other herbs and spices, the fish makes a flavorful accompaniment with the somewhat bland boiled figs.
While a visit to the island of Saint Lucia allows one to taste the dish for self, you may get confused about how it came to be embedded in the culture.
St Lucians say the dish actually originated before the mid-19th century when slavery existed, which is true for many of the island’s local specialties.
During this time bananas were over abundant, and dried and salted cod could be inexpensively imported from Nova Scotia, Canada.
Back in the day, salt fish was among the rations given to the slaves because it was cheap, easy and a good source of protein.
The slaves ingeniously cooked the salt fish and added their own herbs and spices to make it tasty, which are still used in the dish today.
The recipe has been handed down through the generations, becoming more embedded into the culture.
Saint Lucia locals eat Green Fig & Salt Fish all year, typically on weekends and with a side salad of grated cucumber or lettuce, tomato and avocado.
The island had a large Roman Catholic population, which meant no eating meat on Fridays.
Saturdays are also a popular day to eat Green Fig & Salt fish, as most families opt for something easy to prepare to save time for completing chores and errands.
While not much has changed with the dish over the years, one thing has, the price.
Today salt fish is no longer considered a poor people’s food because it is no longer cheap to make.
One particularly special time to enjoy it is during the annual Jounen Kweyol or Creole Day Festival in October.
Historically, Saint Lucia was actively fought over by the French and British, with each having claimed ownership several times.
There is still a rich French-based Creole culture on the island, and Jounen Kweyole is the official day to celebrate that heritage.
During the festival, traditional dishes including Green Fig & Salt Fish can be sampled in abundance along with seafoods, sweets and beverages such as cocoa tea and fresh fruit juices.
If you visit outside of this time, a good starting point for your Green Fig & Salt fish exploration is Castries Market.
Here you’ll find an array of food stalls selling the meal, each putting their own unique twist on the traditional recipe.
Additionally, Green Fig and Salt Fish is a staple menu item at most local restaurants.
It’s the type of meal I would order at home in Africa, and actually the average restaurant would serve back in Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi DR Congo And Kenya.
Sauteing the ingredients has allowed the garlic, pepper and onion to seep into the fish for a delightfully bold flavor.
What’s pleasing to me isn’t just the taste of the food, however, it’s the opportunity to explore local heritage through my palate.
The dish tells the story of Saint Lucia, tracing it’s history from the 1700s. That’s a truly special thing to be savored.
Prepare Your Self This Meal The Saint Lucia Way
Green Figs (Green Bananas) & Salt Fish
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 1 lb salt fish
- 8-12 green bananas
- 1/4 c coconut or vegetable oil
- 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
- 1 medium sweet pepper, coarsely chopped
- 4 seasoning peppers, thinly sliced
- 1/4 c chives, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tsp fresh thyme
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Parsley for garnish
Preparing the Salt Fish:
1. Rinse the salt fish to remove excess surface salt. Place the salt fish in a saucepan and cover with water.
Bring to the boil and simmer for about 15 minutes.
Drain water; refill the pot with fresh water and repeat boiling process for another 15 minutes.
2. Drain and set salt fish aside until cool enough to handle.
Clean salt fish by removing all skin, scales and bones.
Flake the cleaned salt fish and set aside.
3. Put oil in a pan over meduim heat.
Add onions, peppers, half the grated garlic and saute until fragrant, about 5 minutes.
4. Add flaked salt fish, 1 tsp thyme and half the green onions to the pan and stir to mix thoroughly.
5. Cover pan and cook for an additional 10 minutes.
Uncover pan, add remaining garlic, green onions and thyme and mix well.
Turn off the heat, season salt fish with salt and pepper to taste.
Cover pot and set aside until ready to serve.
Preparing the Green Figs (Green Bananas):
1. Wash the green figs, cut off the two ends, make one slice just through the skin, lengthwise and put in a heat proof bowl.
Pour boiling water over the green figs to cover and set aside for about 10 minutes.
Drain water and allow the green figs to cool enough to handle.
Carefully remove skin from the green figs, using a small knife if needed.
Put the peeled green figs in a pot of boiling water; add 1/2 tsp salt and 1tsp vegetable oil.
Bring to boil and simmer for about 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and leave to cool enough to handle.
2. Slice each green fig on the diagonal into 3 pieces. Place slices of green figs on individual serving plates and top with a generous portion of the cooked salt fish. Garnish with chopped parsley.
3. Serve with a grated cucumber salad and/or a mixed salad of lettuce, tomato and avocado on the side.
The creole heritage and French-English history of Saint Lucia gives the island's traditional cuisine a flavor that's unique and delicious.
Throughout the year, festivals and holy days are celebrated with dishes that are de rigueur for every self-respecting local, like Good Friday when smoked herring is the breakfast of the day.
Jounen Kweyol when roast breadfruit is enjoyed from a calabash bowl and Christmas when spicy sorrel is brewed from red blossoms to drink all day long.
Saltfish & Green Figs is the national dish of Saint Lucia, harking back to the nautical past when salted cod was a staple on long voyages.
Stewed with seasoning peppers and onions, the saltfish is served with boiled, unripe bananas and enjoyed day in and day out across the island.
Hot Bakes and Cocoa Tea is a favourite island breakfast, pairing a cup of delicious local cocoa, spices and milk savoury with hot, deep-fried bread like a savoury doughnut.
Nothing can compare with an early start Lucian-style!
Lambi is the Patois name for conch, which is caught by local fishermen, extracted from its impressive shell and served up in restaurants across Saint Lucia.
Whether it's in a Creole-spiced stew at a street stand or a fine-dining creation at a top restaurant.
Want to keep it really authentic? While bouillon may be a stock cube in some cuisines, in Saint Lucia it's a hearty, rustic stew containing pig tail or some other exotic cut of meat, simmered in one pot with ground provisions, seasonings and hand-rolled dumplings.
Lionfish is new to Saint Lucia's tables, but cooks and chefs around the island are creating new recipes and special dishes to encourage the fishing of this highly invasive, destructive species.
Once the dramatic spines are gone, lionfish is a tender, white and delicious fish which is becoming an eco-friendly trend in the island.
Tourism Observer
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